|Evil Paradise Area
This awesome route is likely one of the best 5.10s at Diablo, on par with the Winter Wall classic Grape Ape and the best of the Early Wall, Grotto, etc.
Anchor your belayer to the two bolts on the right side of the gully.
Clip the first two bolts on easy terrain before traversing left towards the arete. The route really gets going around bolt five, with tricky moves and a bizarre mantle to get established on the arete. From here, get psyched for 50 feet of continuous, technical face climbing on small edges and pockets, using the left arete on occasion. It isn't over until you clip the anchors.
The obvious arete and face about 20 feet right of Lucifer's Hammer Drill. It shares the first two bolts with Drama Queen (10d, another new Vaino route) before heading left.
Head up the gully and belay your leader from the two-bolt anchor on the gully's right side.
Tightly bolted: 14 bolts to chains. It is easy to back-clean a few of the bolts.
Be careful with the ends of the rope if you are climbing with a 60m (a 50m definitely won't work, and a 70m is more convenient).
A tricky upper crux with some amazing, airy positi...
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This new climb should become popular, with its airy location, intriguing moves, and bolts closer together than the older climbs in the Grotto. We'll see, though, as it's just a little bit farther walk to get to it.
Sep 10, 2013
Fun route!! Upper portion has some nice exposure.