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Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Ejesta 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Charlie Porter, Bob Ashworth, Jeff Stubbs, January 1974
Page Views: 2,639
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: The requisite shot of the final traverse. Looks m...

Description 

First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7. Belay in a alcove/stance. The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.


Location 

Ejesta is found by hiking east from reed's direct, past lunatic fringe and past stone groove. If you get to a huge corner alcove, you've gone just a little too far.


Protection 

standard rack, to 3". I have heard you can do the route in 1 pitch with a 70m, but havent tried it. I think you would still need 2 ropes to rappel.



Photos of Ejesta Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Price traversing to the chains on Ejesta.
Jason Price traversing to the chains on Ejesta.
Jeff belaying me on the second pitch of Ejesta.
Jeff belaying me on the second pitch of Ejesta.
Ronda traversing to the chains, great sunset photo op
Ronda traversing to the chains, great sunset photo...
Somehow I cut myself on the traverse at the end of the route.  Seemed like a good opportunity for the pretend-to-be-a-bad-ass shot, though the cut was much smaller than it looks.
Somehow I cut myself on the traverse at the end of...
Comments on Ejesta Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 14, 2014
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 15, 2007

At least one 4" piece is helpful for the upper portion of the second pitch. Great route!

By TinCrow
From: Ca
May 5, 2008

First pitch has loose stones at the belay, be careful. Really great second pitch, widened up to #5 camalot. We did the rap with one 70' that left us on a chossy ledge with an easy move to the ground.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The belay at the top of P1 is blocky and loose. The left crack is formed by sketchy stacked blocks supported by a crumbling base. Set anchor in right crack with #2 and #3 BD camalots (or larger).

By Osprey
From: ...
Nov 30, 2009

Do the route with a 70m rope. This just makes the rappel to the ground easier and faster. Also, after rappelling, you should top rope Porter's Pout 5.10. This is the broken handcrack you see while on rappel and shares the same chains as Ejesta.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 13, 2010

We did it in one pitch with double ropes, rope drag wasn't too bad - fun route!

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is a 'fixed' BD #4 in the wide section as of January 2011. That part is pretty easy if you know how to bridge your feet - you can just walk up it and use your hands to steady yourself.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 12, 2011

Worth doing once.

By Roger Suen
From: Los Angeles, CA
Dec 29, 2011

2nd pitch right before it starts traversing, there is a mini fridge sized block that is gonna come down. Be careful not to touch it, maybe a removal mission is in order. 60 m links the two pitches without an inch to spare (can't even make your anchor w/ the rope) but it works.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Charlie Porter, Bob Ashworth, Jeff Stubbs, 1/1974

By Cimbing Ivy
Mar 4, 2013

fantastic good fun!

P1 is blocky but not chossy - very enjoyable. clean beautiful rock on P2. the traverse is super positive and easy to protect with extensions - airy good fun for both leader and second :)

we rapped with a single full/long 70m to climber right towards uphill side of the crag - with rope stretch all the way to the ground with not an inch to spare.

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'll assume that the 2.5 star average here refers more to the so-so first pitch than the route as a whole, because I found P2 to be classic with interesting double-crack route reading and that famous, somewhat blind traverse right to finish the route.

I concur with the earlier comments that two #3s and #4s (and even maybe one #5) would be nice if you want to really sew up P2. I had just one #3 and #4, and found it to be rather run-out (though solid for big feet and hands). Ended up walking up the #4 once during the last 20% of the pitch to protect it better.

By Ryan Kirtland
Mar 14, 2014

Did this in one pitch with a 70m. Loose first 40 feet. Rapping far to the east with the 70m left us with 15 feet of easy downclimbing. Agree on doubles to #4 BD.