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Jeff belaying me on the second pitch of Ejesta.
First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7. Belay in a alcove/stance. The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.
Ejesta is found by hiking east from reed's direct, past lunatic fringe and past stone groove. If you get to a huge corner alcove, you've gone just a little too far.
standard rack, to 3". I have heard you can do the route in 1 pitch with a 70m, but havent tried it. I think you would still need 2 ropes to rappel.
Jason Price traversing to the chains on Ejesta.
Ronda traversing to the chains, great sunset photo...
BETA PHOTO: The requisite shot of the final traverse. Looks m...
Somehow I cut myself on the traverse at the end of...
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 15, 2007
At least one 4" piece is helpful for the upper portion of the second pitch. Great route!
May 5, 2008
First pitch has loose stones at the belay, be careful. Really great second pitch, widened up to #5 camalot. We did the rap with one 70' that left us on a chossy ledge with an easy move to the ground.
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
The belay at the top of P1 is blocky and loose. The left crack is formed by sketchy stacked blocks supported by a crumbling base. Set anchor in right crack with #2 and #3 BD camalots (or larger).
Nov 30, 2009
Do the route with a 70m rope. This just makes the rappel to the ground easier and faster. Also, after rappelling, you should top rope Porter's Pout 5.10. This is the broken handcrack you see while on rappel and shares the same chains as Ejesta.
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 13, 2010
We did it in one pitch with double ropes, rope drag wasn't too bad - fun route!
|By Mark P Thomas|
Jan 18, 2011
There is a 'fixed' BD #4 in the wide section as of January 2011. That part is pretty easy if you know how to bridge your feet - you can just walk up it and use your hands to steady yourself.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 12, 2011
Worth doing once.
|By Roger Suen|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Dec 29, 2011
2nd pitch right before it starts traversing, there is a mini fridge sized block that is gonna come down. Be careful not to touch it, maybe a removal mission is in order. 60 m links the two pitches without an inch to spare (can't even make your anchor w/ the rope) but it works.
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Charlie Porter, Bob Ashworth, Jeff Stubbs, 1/1974
|By Cimbing Ivy|
From: Sierra northside
Mar 4, 2013
fantastic good fun!
P1 is blocky but not chossy - very enjoyable. clean beautiful rock on P2. the traverse is super positive and easy to protect with extensions - airy good fun for both leader and second :)
we rapped with a single full/long 70m to climber right towards uphill side of the crag - with rope stretch all the way to the ground with not an inch to spare.
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2013
I'll assume that the 2.5 star average here refers more to the so-so first pitch than the route as a whole, because I found P2 to be classic with interesting double-crack route reading and that famous, somewhat blind traverse right to finish the route.
I concur with the earlier comments that two #3s and #4s (and even maybe one #5) would be nice if you want to really sew up P2. I had just one #3 and #4, and found it to be rather run-out (though solid for big feet and hands). Ended up walking up the #4 once during the last 20% of the pitch to protect it better.