Eight Ounces To Freedom
||Trad, Boulder, 20'
|Consensus: || Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]|
|FA: ||Justin Edl and Jeremy Medley, 2003|
|Page Views: ||5,920|
|Submitted By: ||Justin Edl on May 16, 2006|
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BETA PHOTO: Eight Ounces To Freedom is the wide thing with the...
One of Vedauwoos hardest offwidth ticks, this is a burly bastard.
Start under the roof on hands and follow these into deepening fists, thugging your way over the wide lip and into substantially easier terrain to the top.
A couple of pads will do. It's nice to have a spotter, as your inside foot can get quite stuck while turning the lip, and they can help you pull it out.
Hanging out with Team America!
Feb 11, 2009
It doesn't get much burlier than this.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jan 13, 2015
I didn't get the sit-up, but for me the crux was trying to ignore the feeling that my ankle was going to snap. Thoughts?
By Justin Edl
Jan 20, 2015
Yeah, it's certainly hard onthe right ankle, but I have never noticed an impending injurious feeling. If there is a next time for you, perhaps try putting your foot in the crack where you can still cam on it, but where it can wiggle around a bit if you fall so your ankle can rotate with you at least a bit, and also go for the body friction/palm wedge if you fall to lessen the impact. Lower temperatures for thick clothing are preferable :).
Worthy to note also is that a friend was working on it years ago and headed up there by himself one day. He got well into the crux and then fell out (no ankle snapping, but a bit of swelling from the extended removal process) and was left dangling there, touching the ground but not on the ground, for an extended and stressful period of time before he was able to work/force his foot back out of there. A spot is useful for this one if for nothing else to help lift you up so you can get the elevation gain you need in order to get your foot back out of the crack if you fall.