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Eight Miles High 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Sharon Vaughan, 2000
Page Views: 1,455
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

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Description 

I'm giving this route two stars because of the really cool arete move, despite the fact that the climbing to that point is easy and a little dirty, and despite the totally unnecessary first 8 bolts. The first 8 bolts are all next to good and easily-placed gear on easy climbing (maybe one 5.8 move). Why are these cracks bolted? The bolt on the arete, the bolt above that, and the anchors are the only bolts needed. Other routes on this wall (e.g., Arcanum) do not have bolts where there is good gear.

Start 30 feet right of Mystic Mile, just left of a flake leaning against the base of the wall, midway between two large trees.

Pitch 1 (10a, 8 bolts, 130 feet): Eight Miles High shares the first 6 bolts with Mind Bender, a 12a A0(?). Climb easy and somewhat dirty rock to a steep headwall. Mind Bender continues straight up. Instead, clip the 6th bolt with a long sling and traverse straight left to a horizontal hand crack. Clip the 8th bolt with a long sling, place a yellow Alien above to protect the reachy clip of the 9th bolt on the arÍte. Teeter up the exposed crux move to a good stance. Clip another bolt and climb straight up at about 5.9, or move right a bit, to the anchors and a small but good stance. The Wave (10a) climbs to these same anchors from below and left. The arete section could be much harder if you are short. If you are tall enough, you can rest right on the arete prior to doing the crux.

With a 70m rope you can lower to the ground (rope drag might be bad). With a 60m rope the belayer would have to climb up a bit (tie in to the end!). Plan B would be to bring the second up and rap (100').

Pitch 2 (5.6, 3 bolts, 80 feet): I didn't climb this pitch. This is according to Rossiter: Ascend a sloping shelf, a slab, and belay from a tree at the top of the wall. Exit right to Serenity Ledge. 80'.

Protection 

Pitch 1 (130'): 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. 2 full-length slings for the 6th and 8th bolts. Yellow Alien to protect the clip of the 9th bolt on the arete. Pitch 2 (80'): 3 bolts to a tree. You should be able to hike or climb left to the anchors for Mystic Mile.


Photos of Eight Miles High Slideshow Add Photo
Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
Bart Calkins starting the traverse left on Eight Miles High.  Mind Bender continues up the right-facing corner above Bart.
Bart Calkins starting the traverse left on Eight M...
Bart Calkins high-stepping the 10a crux move on the arete.
Bart Calkins high-stepping the 10a crux move on th...
Bart Calkins on the airy traverse to the arete.  The bolt protecting the crux move on the arete is marked with an X.
Bart Calkins on the airy traverse to the arete. T...

Comments on Eight Miles High Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 31, 2010
By Richard Rossiter
Oct 19, 2003

I would like to comment on the superfluous bolts just right of the initial crack. As you may know, I have cleaned, set up and led hundreds of new routes along the Front Range in Colorado. It has never been my practice to bolt usable cracks. Looking back at this route now, I don't know what the hell I was thinking. If these bolts are offensive to most people I will be happy to remove them myself.

Have fun and be safe.

Richard Rossiter
By Kirk Woerner
Oct 20, 2003

Now THAT takes guts. Good on you, man.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

An airy and exciting route. The crux is a pumpy, committing high-step layback on the arete; my partner and I felt it was more like 10b or 10c than 10a. The move is definitely harder if you're short. I clipped an 11th bolt to the left at the top, but it may have been on another route (The Wave).

Bring up your partner and rap 100' back to the start. We didn't do the second pitch; it looked very easy and uninteresting.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 25, 2003

Ron, Yes the crux is exciting, but the 100' of climbing leading to it is easy and not that interesting, although not unpleasant. At the crux, did you step around to the left side of the arete? There's a good hold there. I'm pretty sure I leaned left and stepped up with my right foot. As for lowering off, I was self-belaying, and so tied off the rope at the anchor and rapped the free end. As you say, it's probably not a good idea to lower off, and a 60m rope won't reach without the belayer climbing up a bit.Ivan
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ivan Rezucha wrote: "At the crux, did you step around to the left side of the arete? There's a good hold there. I'm pretty sure I leaned left and stepped up with my right foot."

No, I didn't. I used a knob on the arete for my left hand, and high-stepped with my left foot onto the arete. My partner did it the same way. I'll have to try it your way next time; it has to be easier than what we did!
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just want to reiterate Ivan's comment about lowering with a 60m rope. If you do this, be sure the belayer is tied in to the end of the rope; the belayer will have to climb up a bit to get the leader all the way down. Letting the end of the rope slip through the belay device would likely have fatal consequences for the leader. Better to use a 70m rope if you're lowering, or belay from the top and get down via a 100' rappel.

I carefully inspected the left side of the arete, and did not find any usable footholds. My partner and I did the crux move the same way: grab a protrusion on the arete with the left hand, and high-step the left foot onto a sloping foothold right on the arete.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
May 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route has some nice moves on the arete. I didn't put a long sling on the sixth bolt; this bolt looks like it's exclusively for the route "Mind Bender, although clipping it might make the traverse move less worrisome. I didn't need any gear on the rest of the route, but I'm tall so perhaps the clips were easier. I wouldn't recommend the second pitch. It's short, slabby, and covered in lichen. However, if you do the second pitch, and belay from the tree, you can walk a bit to (climber's) right and rap off those anchors down to the Mind Bender pitch-1 anchors and reach the ground safely from there. Rapping straight from the first-pitch anchors of Eight Miles could be problematic.
There is another route that starts about 6' to the right of Eight Miles High. Maybe someone set up a new start for Mind Bender so that it no longer shares any bolts with Eight Miles High?
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Kevin,

The route to the right of Mind Bender is Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid. Great climb; do it the next time you're up at Sleeping Beauty.

How did you get across the creek?
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2007

Greg Miller led this all trad yesterday. The only excitement is the last slab move which is above a micro cam that's a few feet below your feet. I then led it clipping the last 2 bolts. The arete move turned out to be much easier than I remembered, so I could have easily done it with just the last bolt. The arete move is protected by a fair micro cam, #00 TCU or purple Alien, with back up about 4 feet below. No gear for the first 30' or so off the ground, but it's easy.
By kyle lefkoff
Sep 7, 2008

I backed off the arete move on sight - Strappo flashed it. A beautiful pitch with an exciting finish, but harder than 10a. We lowered through the belay with a 70m rope with no problem.
By Rita
From: Denver, CO
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun climb with good movement. Crux was a little reachy as I am short but still totally do-able. If you can get past the fear of the airy traverse, I would recommend NOT clipping the 6th bolt. Even with a long sling, the rope drag made for a tougher than necessary lead.