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Eiger biners
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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 26, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Troll and Eiger hexes were, as I recall, very thick and heavy devices. Waaay thicker than even the first generation of hexcentrics. No fun hauling them around. I might have one somewhere in my old gear collection too. Will find it and do a pic if possible.


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By Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Jun 26, 2012

Coolest thread I've read in a long time, thanks guys.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 26, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Here's what I dug up from the old rack hanging in the barn. First pic is a gathering of carabiners. Left column: a Clog D, stamped Climb High on the other side as they were selling them here in States. Next below is the ultimate 'biner of the late 70's, the Bonaiti 'ultralight' D biner. I must have had 50 or more of these back then. they were pretty light for the day. Next is a Bonaiti oval, and last is a rare hollow Chouinard 'featherlight' carabiner. They had a tendency to crack open, split and break in half. Weight only 40 grams, also an early 80's invention.

Second column: An Eiger oval, next a similar SMC oval, then a Liberty slight D' shaped biner, and finally a Salewa R.Robbins oval. Note the bump at the gate for easy location of gate on an oval,,,think it was the first carabiner to have that for location.

Next pic is a Troll product I think, some off shaped titon thing, then a slider chock, manufacturer I don't know as it said 'patent pending' with some numbers only on it. Finally a nice silver #7 Forrest Titon.

Last pic is a Chouinard drilled hexcentric, supposed to lighten up the chock before they got a thinner aluminum to use for best and current shapes. An SMC 'taperloc', just imagine these 2 chocks being crushed in shape when holding a big fall. Last is a heavy thick Troll hex, with an 11mm. rope as the sling.
More old stuff, like RURPs and crackN'ups also in my old gear collection.

collection of old biners
collection of old biners




titon shaped chock and the real thing
titon shaped chock and the real thing




troll hex and a chouinard drilled hexcentric
troll hex and a chouinard drilled hexcentric


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By Gunkiemike
Jun 26, 2012

Woodchuck, thanks for the biner info. Your Liberty is exactly like my "Gendarme" branded one. So it's not an Eiger, as I suspected.

Speaking of Eiger hexes, here's the only one I have, a #2. It's 1.25" long x 0.5" across its symmetrical hex profile. Note the large holes. This is apparently a non-OEM cable on it, which would explain the clunky swage and Tygon tubing (not heat shrink) on it.

small Eiger hex, age unknown
small Eiger hex, age unknown


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 26, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Yes, I do have some of those old Eiger wires too, just forgot to grab them off the same rack in storage. Same size too I believe. SMC also had similar solid wired hex nuts too.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 28, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Wow guys! Thanks for the pics and the history lesson! COOL STUFF!

I never know Chouinard ever MADE a hollow carabiner nor there was a Robbins carabiner either!

WOW! Hollow! Now that's a wild idea!


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 28, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Different size/shapes of the'D', and adjustments to the oval seemed to keep the 80's busy with redesigns. Chouinard ovals were the standard, then those smaller Bonaiti 'D shaped lightweight biners came out, and often under 3 bucks per, made for a nice way to load up your trad rack cheap. Don't think doglegs came along until,,,90's?,, and then wire gates and the itty bitty sized Neutrinos and similar of the last 10 years. Always something new to get you to buy more gear. My toprope setup bundle of slings still use the collection of ovals I have.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 29, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Yeah it seems the trend is marketing these days and every couple of months someone comes out with the latest and greatest new carabiner - smaller, lighter, etc - and now the wire gate is the rage of course.

Sure - shaving weight off a rack is always a nice thing - but still - the classic oval 'biner can't be beat - IMHO. Sure - there ARE stronger shapes and such now - but - I've never heard of an oval 'biner failing yet...not saying they haven't - but I never heard of it happening - and if it did - it sure wasn't due to the shape of the 'biner vs. being defective or damaged.


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By Ed Wright
Jun 29, 2012
Magic Ed

For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting.

here


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By NYClimber
From New York
Jun 29, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Ed Wright wrote:
For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting. here


OK thanks.


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By Unassigned User
Jan 21, 2013

Hello,
Still seeking a few more Eiger 'biners for my collection, especially any anodized models. PM me what you have for sale...
Thanks!


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