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NW Corner
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Egos and Friction S 
Northern Lights S 
Toy Box S 

Egos and Friction 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Mr. Stickleback on Mar 22, 2008

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Close up of Egos and Friction.

Description 

On the upper headwall of the north slab. Good route with delicate friction moves. The crux is getting the second bolt but it doesn't let up until the slab on top.


Location 

between Northern Lights and Toy Box, generally.


Protection 

bolts



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By Baylord
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is also a 3 pitch climb. Pitch one is 5.8, the second pitch is also 5.8 until you hit the head wall and take on a few thin 5.10 moves. This is just one of the possible cruxes, I found the very last move at the top of the slab just before moving onto the ramp trickier then the rest. Then again pitch 3 (Twisted Friction) is sustained friction for the most part.

Brooklyn Gose leading pitch one (Jinxed 5.9) of The Malediction Route. Egos and Friction is the next bolt line to the right of this one.
Brooklyn Gose leading pitch one (Jinxed 5.9) of The Malediction Route. Egos and Friction is the next bolt line to the right of this one.