|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tradoholic on Oct 20, 2010|
|Comments on Ego Tripping||Add Comment|
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Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rope is on "Electrocutioner" anchors I believe...
"Eletrocutioner" = arete route. 5.8+/5.9. Thurmond route.
"Ego Tripping" = face route to the left of "into the sun". 5.10
2 bolted routes total left of "into the sun".
By J. Frizzell
Dec 28, 2012
|Did I screw up the bolt job? It starts left to right and I don't recall The electrocutioner being in play. Perhaps I was too focused on the desired line and denied the proxsimity. A bit of a rating descrepency as well. This doesn't surprise me. The crux is pretty hard if you don't see it. I happened to see it the first time thus the 10a grade. Jack it and its definately harder. Sweet finish huh?|
By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 15, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I think this route is mis-described. It is my belief that this route is describing the now-bolted electrocutioner (previously in the guide as TR, I think). At least based on the description that you can use arête holds and the rope placement in the picture. If you tried to ascend the face it'd be probably 9-9+ as the submitter rated it. I think the route in question is the bolt line left of Into the Sun (starts behind a tree and if you wanted to "stick clip" you could stem the tree). There's no way the route I am thinking of touches the arête. It's a true face route that is every bit of 10a. Probably one of the more sustained 10as at the falls, IMHO.|
By Eric O'Rear
May 19, 2014
|^ Kate is spot on. You're looking for the bolt line following the very-close-to-the-wall tree. Complete face climb. Sustained 10a. Excellent climbing and very cool hold offerings (patience is a virtue).|