Eggs Over Sleazy 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Chris Weidner January 23, 2013 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Chris Weidner on Feb 4, 2013 |
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BETA PHOTO: Eggs Over Sleazy
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Description This route ascends the smooth and vertical varnished face about 15 feet right of Classic Corner (5.8). Expect a bouldery start and thin climbing throughout.
Location From the base of Classic Corner scramble rightward up rock bobbles to a flat belay stance about 15 feet below the first bolt. Scramble to a small ledge to clip the first bolt.
Protection 7 bolts to chains.
| Comments on Eggs Over Sleazy |
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By Mark Limage Feb 6, 2013
| Put some top-rope anchors in and eventually somebody will drill it up for lead! This has happened to my TR anchors more times than I can remember...which is just fine as I can't afford all those bolts/hangers. Glad somebody thought it was worth drilling up. I'm doubting this went in ground-up and instead, like I did 12 years ago, you banged a hard right half-way up Classic Corner. Does the name have some particular meaning? |
By Chris Weidner Feb 7, 2013
| Hey Mark, good to hear from you. I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago. I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering. The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it when we start words with the letters SL. Thanks for the post. It's nice to know you put that anchor in and checked it out 12 years ago. The route is well worth doing. Cheers, Chris |
By Mark Limage Feb 7, 2013
| Cool. Thanks for sharing. Here's to old dogs...SLow, SLobbering, SLuggish, SLumping, SLovenly, beer-SLurping, SLap-happy, SLumbering old dogs! Cheers to Slamball! |
By Chris Weidner Feb 8, 2013
| Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!! |
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