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The Egg
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Coffee and Cigarettes S 
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Egghead S 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
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Shell Shock S 
Sign Language S 
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This is your Brain on Drugs S 
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Egghead 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Thornburg?
Page Views: 3,692
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2002

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Brad working the arete on Egghead. Great, fun fac...

Description 

This route is the leftmost route on the north face of the rock. It can be seen from the downhill approach.

This is a TOUGH "5.11b". Clip the 1st bolt before you get off the ground or you'll really be sorry. Finding the non-existant feet on the bottom part of the route is what makes this tough, though if you're flexable there's another (scary) option. This is a 5.11b after you get to the second bolt, where the climbing gets searchy, reachy, and interesting. The lieback at the top is great fun if you're not too pumped from the lower sections of the route.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Egghead Slideshow Add Photo
Working the arete.
Working the arete.
Moving onto the ramp.
Moving onto the ramp.
Egghead, with base of Sign Language in the backgro...
Egghead, with base of Sign Language in the backgro...
Starting the arete.
Starting the arete.
Elizabeth making her way up Egghead on a beautiful...
Elizabeth making her way up Egghead on a beautiful...
Working the arete, trying not to cheat too much by...
Working the arete, trying not to cheat too much by...
Unknown climber on Egghead. 10/11/14
Unknown climber on Egghead. 10/11/14

Comments on Egghead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2013
By Beavis
Sep 11, 2002



I agree - the start is pretty harsh for 5.11b, but I found the climb eases up a lot until the arrete at the top. Maybe I just need work on my arrete technique. Regardless, it's a great climb, but stiff for the grade.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 22, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WOW! What can I say? This is an incredible route! I never thought I had a chance at it after 4 attempts to get off the ground. I would be interested to hear how others do this lower move. My fingers were getting raw from hanging on the tiny sharp finger holds trying to get to the second bolt. I decided I would try yet another idea, saying "this is my last try" for the third time! I made the moves and was able to stand up, just in balance, with small but decent holds. Clipping the second bolt was a little iffy but once clipped you are pretty safe and in good shape. The rest of the climb is just absolute FUN! Getting on the ramp was a little awkward and moving up the face using the arete was classic. I just had enough steam to pop for the one good bucket hold on the arete just prior to the anchors. What a wonderful route! I will go back and do it again. Doing this route right after doing Sign Language adds up to two fantastic pitches! Anyone know how the route to the right compares to Egghead? It, too, looks fantastic!
By Wilcher Aaron
Sep 25, 2005

Uh, beta for the start? Do a big move to the bulge thing on the right for a layback? Not 11 minus. V4/5?

This is a dangerous start to clip the second bolt; even with the first bolt clipped to start, there's deck potential or a bad tangle with your belayer if you blow it for the second clip. Next time, I'm going to stick clip the second bolt to work out the moves.

BTW: what's up with these eye bolts around Mickey's?

How old are they? Anyone want to replace with Fixe hangars and add Fixes with chains + more convenient toprope anchors (not over the lip and shared anchors)? Does this rock need a double hole eye bolt? Will single-hole Fixe's work?

I think its pretty cool, tho, at Mickey's that you have to top out (bouldering style) to finish the routes on lead: a unique experience. And that its possible to not clip the anchor, untie and walk off the back on lead: sick, guy.

A Mickeys ethic?: don't clip the anchor, untie and walk down.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I agree with Wilcher that you could get hurt pretty badly if you fall while clipping the second bolt! Using double ropes would help here. I have done the initial moves three different ways. The first success was moving straight up with a loooong reach off the obvious starting holds. Very iffy once standing as you need to move left a move on thin hand holds to get to second bolt! The second way was as you mention Wilcher. Off the starting holds, throw a right foot high to the right on a good hold and reach up and right around the slight arete to a layback hold. Once standing it is still a bit scary moving left to be able to reach the bolt. The third way was actually going out left once you get on the rock. Reach up and over left hand with right hand and then reach way directly left with left hand to good sideways hold. Feet are on very small holds. Reach up with right hand to tiny but secure hold to pull to standing position. Once standing you can clip the second bolt. Falling anywhere on any of these variations could be serious as you would land, probably on your butt, on the pointy rock below. Now, after all that, I witnessed a young guy who climbed the crux the third description above and actually clipped the second bolt hanging on the tiny, secure hold. This way his body remained low nearer the first bolt. I could never hang there and clip. I don't think this gives away the crux as even with the options it's still hard and scary. If you do get up there, keep your head getting to and clipping the second bolt! Once you get over the second bolt, the rest of the climb up to the arete and climbing the arete is pure fun! Hard still, but very fun!
By EricBis
Jul 22, 2006

I went to do this route about a month ago and found that the hillside had eroded allowing a large boulder to roll down and block the infamous start. The boulder also makes the first couple clips pretty scary as it is definitely possible that you would land on it if you fell. It still makes a fun toprope though.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Aug 1, 2006

Above comment is correct. It was also that way about a month ago when I last visited. You can still do the original start, but it's like adding a sit-down start since you'll be about even with that boulder. First bolt makes absolutely no sense, but second should protect all the hard moves. After that it's not too bad to the third (second) bolt, which was a groundfall if you didn't get it in the first place.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Haven't been here in awhile but I was wondering if the boulder that slid down could be somehow moved and slid lower. I know it's huge but maybe with a little digging and a crowbar, it could be maneuvered. Is this even ethical? Just throwing it out there. I really enjoyed working the original first moves...
By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Aug 31, 2009

I think the FA was Jim Thornburg
By DavidJohnson333
From: AZ
Jan 3, 2013

Great climb! Followed on top rope after belaying a very talented friend. The huge boulder still sits at the base of the climb, making the first bolt irrelevant, and blocking the original start. This is still a great line though.
By jimi thornburg
Jan 12, 2013

I added a bolt a few months back between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. What used to be just a spooky run-out had become a potential ground-fall because the ground is about 5 feet higher than it used to be due to the rock and dirt slide.

The route is now a pretty safe lead and no longer warrants an R rating. It could still be a PG perhaps because of the run-out between the 4th and 5th bolts.

The old crux is gone (it was the first few moves). The entire route is maybe 11a or b now.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 19, 2013

Jim, Thanks for the route maintenance.