|483 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12c [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Alan Nelson, fall 2000 FFA:Unknown or Peter Hunt, May 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Peter Hunt on Jun 10, 2006|
This route starts from the same anchor as Wagging the Nub on the far right side of Easter Rock (Rolofson, Vol. 2, page 74-75). This is the first anchor after you pass the Flying Beast and walk across the exposed traverse—that's why there's an anchor. Follow the line of bolts up and slightly right. The climbing is mostly pretty moderate with a short crux after you've gone over a roof (11-) and are moving to and from a diagonal crack on a clean little face (12c). It looks like one could traverse in from the left and get to the crack that way, but, for full value, start low with a cross through to a small left hand crimp that you undercling to get to the crack from below—it'll be obvious when you're there.
The crux is clean, fun, and interesting, but the rest of the climb is non-descript.
Wagging the Nub goes further left after the first bolt and has fewer bolts on it.
This was route 17a Project in Rolofson's guide.
About eight bolts to the anchor. The crux is very well protected.