Egg McMeadows 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Paul Wonsavage11/96 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 17, 2007 |
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Just above the crux on Egg McMeadows.
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Description The start is just like the rest of the routes on this section, crimpy 5.7 climbing until you get to the bulge where the holds stay small, but the angle increases a few tricky moves may stump you, but there is a rewarding jug over the lip if you hit it right. Mantel and continue easily to the quick clips.
Another recommended route on this section.
Location Just right of Rise and Shine (5.7) starting between the cliff and the boulder.
Protection 5 bolts to quick clips.
top rope anyone?
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Unknown climber working up Egg McMeadows as the da...
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about to clip the anchors
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| Comments on Egg McMeadows |
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| If you are extremely pumped after the mantle it will seem run out, but the climbing is easy so don't fret, also to make the crux move employ the use of a small undercling. |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 26, 2008
| lol i took a surprisingly huge whipper on this route because i messed up the top and it was very fun :) |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| I always felt there was potential for a good whipper on this route... |
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| This route is awesome. Scared the shit out of myself at the top cause I thought I was going to fall.
Excellent jugs for last bolt. |
By Anna C.
From: VT
Nov 4, 2009
| Props to the first ascentionist for not overbolting the top. Always keeps me focused til I clip the anchors - a great climb! |
By Alyson Sewell
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| This route is fantastic! Such fun moves, definitely one of my favorite climbs I have done so far! |
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Dec 8, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| tis still a 9... especially since there seems to always be a big ass tick mark on the hidden hold.. which makes it .8+ |
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Tried this after deciding to no longer be intimidated by the "5.10" rating (as this is rated 10a in the guidebook). Was quite happy with it, but found the crux easier than Easily Aroused (maybe because I'm tall? I did a big reach for what looked good and found the jug). Anyways, I agree this is a bit shy of a 10a (especially compared to some of the older 5.9's at Rumney) |
By J Meagher
Oct 29, 2012
| Would it be possible to traverse right and clip the chains on this after doing rise and shine in order to toprope it, or is it better to just lead the whole route? |
By S. Neoh
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| Save this for lead. It is good; you will be glad you went for the flash/onsight. I have seen people take the fall at the crux, it is safe, just make sure you don;t get the rope behind your leg. |
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