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Egg McMeadows 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Wonsavage11/96
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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top rope anyone?

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The start is just like the rest of the routes on this section, crimpy 5.7 climbing until you get to the bulge where the holds stay small, but the angle increases a few tricky moves may stump you, but there is a rewarding jug over the lip if you hit it right. Mantel and continue easily to the quick clips.

Another recommended route on this section.

Location 

Just right of Rise and Shine (5.7) starting between the cliff and the boulder.

Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Egg McMeadows Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the crux on Egg McMeadows.
Just above the crux on Egg McMeadows.
Unknown climber working up Egg McMeadows as the da...
Unknown climber working up Egg McMeadows as the da...
about to clip the anchors
about to clip the anchors

Comments on Egg McMeadows Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you are extremely pumped after the mantle it will seem run out, but the climbing is easy so don't fret, also to make the crux move employ the use of a small undercling.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 26, 2008

lol i took a surprisingly huge whipper on this route because i messed up the top and it was very fun :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I always felt there was potential for a good whipper on this route...
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is awesome. Scared the shit out of myself at the top cause I thought I was going to fall.

Excellent jugs for last bolt.
By Anna C.
From: VT
Nov 4, 2009

Props to the first ascentionist for not overbolting the top. Always keeps me focused til I clip the anchors - a great climb!
By Alyson Sewell
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is fantastic! Such fun moves, definitely one of my favorite climbs I have done so far!
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Dec 8, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

tis still a 9... especially since there seems to always be a big ass tick mark on the hidden hold.. which makes it .8+
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Tried this after deciding to no longer be intimidated by the "5.10" rating (as this is rated 10a in the guidebook). Was quite happy with it, but found the crux easier than Easily Aroused (maybe because I'm tall? I did a big reach for what looked good and found the jug). Anyways, I agree this is a bit shy of a 10a (especially compared to some of the older 5.9's at Rumney)
By J Meagher
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Would it be possible to traverse right and clip the chains on this after doing rise and shine in order to toprope it, or is it better to just lead the whole route?
By S. Neoh
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Save this for lead. It is good; you will be glad you went for the flash/onsight. I have seen people take the fall at the crux, it is safe, just make sure you don;t get the rope behind your leg.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ward Smith's 2009 guidebook lists Egg McMeadows as a 5.10a, but it is easy at that rating. There is one hard move on the climb near the top (because it's inobvious), but if you know what to do (undercling with your left hand and reach way high and right with your right hand for a "secret" hold), the move is not technically difficult. A 5.9 leader will not have difficulty on this route.
By Ming
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Definitely not 10A. The reachy move can be skipped by going left - which is what almost everybody does these days. Traverse back to a blind reach above the bolt isn't even that bad if one is calm because the feet is there and can lean into the wall pretty well.