Effigy Too 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Matt Cox and Dave Evans, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Jun 25, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Effigy Too and friends... - cragcam
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Description Effigy Too is located just left of the bolted Crossroads. The crux is encountered in the first 15' of climbing and protection is a little bit tricky. The difficulty eases up substantially (5.8ish) after that. Gear belay.
Descent: walk off down chimney to the south.
This would be a 3-star route if it were a bit longer.
Protection Pro to 2 inches, TCUs to protect the crux off the deck.
Mike Morley on the upper section of Effigy Too.
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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 23, 2006
| Amazing start. Bouldery but not too difficult. We found you can protect the crux pretty well with a #2 stopper. Once you get to the prominent crack feature, its just fun cruisin' from there. |
By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.9+
| Good route, definitley worth doing and not even close to 10b - jugs and decent feet means any 10 climber will breeze throught the lower section. |
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008
| I definately agree with the rating as the first moves are quite bouldery. Above the difficulty eases quite a bit, but it still keeps your attention. |
By Richard Shore
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10-
| As mentioned above, a small stopper can be placed high from the ground to protect the opening moves (I clipped mine with a single 'biner). Be aware that you are in groundfall territory before you get your next piece, though the hard climbing is long over. Above this, the rest of the route is 5.8 max. No really small stuff is needed. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| I always thought the start was a bit scary and the route stouter than its original 5.9+ rating |
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