efficient anchor management using just the rope?
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theorycrafting at work, yay! |
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3 bolt belays are nice! |
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What I would usually do in a 3 bolt operation is tie a double eared figure eight in the lead line, clip that to 2 bolts. then pull up the slack in the haul line and clip the haul system into the third bolt. clip the tail of the haul line to any bolt as a backup. |
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Check out the anchor thread over on supertopo. |
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Hey I'd throw out the trying to use the rope to set up the anchor. Do whatever is quick and simple. If your out of gear and need to use tne rope, the proposed system looks pretty good. Also I always try to set a up a different anchor for hauling, seperate from the one I am using to fix the line, etc. Same is true when setting up camp. As far as only three bolts I'd say its better to work your system off an equalized point. However, this looks for you. For a 3 bolt belay I like to eqalize the haul line off 2 bolts then equalize the fixed line off 2 bolts. |
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Is there a good way to do this if you're leading in blocks or just one person is leading? |
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