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This route is the big slot to the right of the Heart and Sole/Quickdraw area. A buddy and I first climbed this route when we arrived at Echo to find most of the starred routes already taken. The line looked kind of long and interesting, so we figured we'd give it a go. The climbing wasn't that great and we decided that this was a good reason not to do un-starred routes in the future.
Note: From the top, we descended by climbing above the route until we could cross a slab way to the left and then scramble down to the anchors for Stick To What. I don't recommended this, but I don't recall any other obvious easier way to get down at the time. Maybe someone has a better suggestion.
Standard rack of gear, maybe take extras if you're planning to place often. Long route! Place-your-own anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock - West Face Left
|By Gary Schenk|
Mar 3, 2008
The first third of this climb is fun. Takes good pro, and has some fun moves. The upper two thirds is a lower angle trough that just gets tedious. Still, the lower part makes it worthwhile.
From: Palm Desert, CA
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This route is great fun. Agree with other reviewer in his assessment of the lower section. Fun moves, though I felt were a bit harder than 5.6, perhaps 5.7/.7+. But no worries, because the gear is great. Have to disagree with the tedious comment about the upper section. IMHO, the upper section offers low angle fun that can be protected well. This is a LONG route and as such, I suggest taking an ample amount of gear and runners. A 70m rope would make this a piece of cake, though one could break this up into 2 pitches or simply simu-climb a bit - only if you feel comfortable with that. Our walk down required us to continue up a little bit (25 feet or so) above our belay station then work our away across and past Double Dip. Truly an amazing view of Josh from the top. Do this route... it's fun!
|By a little one goes up|
Apr 27, 2011
I agree the first third is fun...and needs protection. The rest is easy - I put in a piece every 20 feet or so at the offchance I slipped, which would have been difficult to do. I thought this was a great warm-up, though. It's long (about 130 feet) and gets your body moving. Use a 70-meter rope...we did, and still almost ran out by the time I reached the top.
In terms of the descent...if you turn right at the bolts referenced in the original description (or it's sort of right behind you if you are looking at the bolts), the downclimb continues. You cross over a little crevice. If I remember correctly, there's this long, thin (but sturdy) rock that you cross over and sort of traverse (either by holding onto it, or walking on it). Then I think the downclimb is pretty obvious as you can see pretty safe places too walk in the direction of the ground. I should say I'm not sure if I'm referencing the same bolts as in the original description - but we almost rapped off some bolts that I'm guessing are those...it was windy and we decided to see if we could figure out the downclimb - found it!