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Eff Eight 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,036
Submitted By: Graham Roff on Mar 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Turner leading


This route, while in the Mounds, is actually located on a separate formation slightly to the north of the main rock. A single left leaning crack splits a rounded west-facing rock.

The bottom section goes easily with a nice juggy crack to pull up on. The top flares out and becomes difficult to protect, going from loose to cupped hand jams. The route is very short, fairly technical and moderately fun, not a good 5.8 intro climb however.

Almost a highball boulder problem, but the crux is definitely near the top so watch out!


Bottom protects well with mid-sized cams, upper flared section takes larger (#3 or #4 BD) gear. Awkward gear anchor with small cams and nuts.

Photos of Eff Eight Slideshow Add Photo
Eff Eight.
Eff Eight.
Eff Eight, 5.8
Eff Eight, 5.8
Shawn soloing Eff Eight. Photo by Blitzo.
Shawn soloing Eff Eight. Photo by Blitzo.
A Beautiful line without a crowd
A Beautiful line without a crowd
Eff Eight
Jon Hartmann leading Eff Eight with enough rope on...
Jon Hartmann leading Eff Eight with enough rope on...
Eff Eight
Eff Eight
Kevin and Kat at the top.
Kevin and Kat at the top.

Comments on Eff Eight Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 17, 2012
By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Oct 24, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A good anchor can be setup on top by slinging one of the big, stable boulders with your climbing rope (or cordelette if so inclined). Near the top as the crack flares, there are good smears outside the flare for the L foot.

By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wouldn't go out of my way to climb this thing. But you might as well climb it if your walking by. Sort of like Tennis shoe crack, but less sharp.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Set your anchor higher up. I found great gear in a horizontal crack, I think it was large cams. From there it is a safe walk off, climber's left.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Nov 6, 2008

There is now a two-bolt anchor on top of the formation. For some reason the bolts were placed well back from the end of the climb; an extendo line of about 20 feet or so is needed to prevent rope wear. As mentioned above, large cams work perfectly to build an anchor in a more logical location.
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Nov 6, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not trying to start a flame war or anything but are these bolts really necessary? I remember getting a good large gear anchor on top with the walk off being class 3 at the most. I'm not a local or anything but have climbed at J-Tree a handful of times throughout the years. I'm all for bolts that need to be there but these seem like convenience bolts to me.
By Randy
Nov 7, 2008

If I'm not mistaken, Eff Eight is one of the "60 Favorite Climbs." As such, this rather forgettable climb receives many more ascents than it would otherwise deserve. Still, with so many people climbing this route, it is not surprising that someone decided a bolted anchor would be "nice." Similarly, it is not surprising that the bolts are in a poor location.

As one friend of mine aptly observed, convenience anchors are rarely placed where they are truly needed or actually convenient.

They are, arguably, often an appeasement to the lowest common denominator.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 21, 2010

On January 8, 2010, just after sunset, Aerili made the FMA (First Marshmallow Ascent) of this route. Helping her out were two pairs of pants, three long-sleeved shirts, one windstopper softshell, one puffy, a pair of socks, and one beanie.
By Dave Kos
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are bolts about 20 feet back from the top. Not sure why. Also not sure why this made it in the Winger book. Climb quality is OK, but route is too short to be a classic.
By Stormeh
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I can't even believe this thing is in the classics book. I gave it one star...was tempted to bomb it, but it certainly is memorable: you will never work so hard for 10 feet of climbing on another 5.8 in your life. The initial jugs lure you into a false sense of security and then the awkward OW happens. You'll be curse the lack of any reasonable left feet and grunt your way to the top, only to find misplaced bolts or a wide crack to build an anchor.

When you finish the route you can't help but laugh at it and yourself. You've been suckered. Perhaps this is why it's in the classics book after all. It will certainly get a chuckle out of me and my friends every time it's mentioned from now on.
By Randy
Jun 6, 2011

It is not in any "Classics" guide. It is in 60 favorite Routes, which has a mixture of everything from classics to some real duds.
By Stormeh
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You are correct randy. I'm glad you left this route out of your classics guide.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved this climb! Nice sandy base to belay on amidst the Joshua Trees and an idyllic view at the little meadow/valley behind Echo Rock. Beautiful! And the climbing is pretty good, too.
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awkward and slanty with poor left feet!
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