|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973 |
|Page Views: ||3,973|
|Submitted By: ||Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
George Connor and partner on Eeyore's Enigma
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Its name gives good indication of what to expect.
The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.
The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.
The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.
Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.
The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.
Really wide and kinda scary.
Eeyore's Enigma is the large offwidth chimney to the left and around the corner from Traveler's Buttress and to the right of Eeyore's Ecstasy.
Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3 #4s are useful.
May 16, 2013
Wow, this is an amazing adventure! The squeeze - burrow deep or move to the left? At 6'2" I had to resort to the latter, after struggling to exhaustion and failing many times at the former. Wow.