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Eeyore's Enigma 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973
Page Views: 5,372
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006

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George Connor and partner on Eeyore's Enigma

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Its name gives good indication of what to expect.

The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.

The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.

The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.

Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.

The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.

Really wide and kinda scary.

Location 

Eeyore's Enigma is the large offwidth chimney to the left and around the corner from Traveler's Buttress and to the right of Eeyore's Ecstasy.

Protection 

Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3 #4s are useful.


Photos of Eeyore's Enigma Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down through the squeeze at the fist section. Climber's position is the same as in the middle image of the previously posted picture.
Looking down through the squeeze at the fist secti...
George Connor in the upper squeeze roof of Eeyore's Enigma
George Connor in the upper squeeze roof of Eeyore'...

Comments on Eeyore's Enigma Add Comment
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By AndyBG
May 16, 2013

Wow, this is an amazing adventure! The squeeze - burrow deep or move to the left? At 6'2" I had to resort to the latter, after struggling to exhaustion and failing many times at the former. Wow.