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|Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.|
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>
Ed's Route climbs a hard to protect, open book dihedral using various sized edges and fancy footwork. Follow the obvious seam up and left about 40 feet until you intersect the upper crack of Novacaine. Careful face climbing along with the crux mark the first 25 feet, holds and protection increase as the route does. Finish on a ledge and build an anchor. Walk off.
To sum it up: quality rock, difficult and tricky protection, fun.
Directly right of the obvious crack/roof route Novacaine; set in the center of the Scout Lake Buttress.
Cams and stoppers, brass type or micro nuts, a few long slings and some draws. Expect marginal protection. Build your own anchor.