Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Ed Fallis, Nikki Smith, 1998
Page Views: 592 total · 4/month
Shared By: GRK on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Ed's Route climbs a hard to protect, open book dihedral using various sized edges and fancy footwork. Follow the obvious seam up and left about 40 feet until you intersect the upper crack of Novacaine. Careful face climbing along with the crux mark the first 25 feet, holds and protection increase as the route does. Finish on a ledge and build an anchor. Walk off.

To sum it up: quality rock, difficult and tricky protection, fun.

Location Suggest change

Directly right of the obvious crack/roof route Novacaine; set in the center of the Scout Lake Buttress.

Protection Suggest change

Cams and stoppers, brass type or micro nuts, a few long slings and some draws. Expect marginal protection. Build your own anchor.

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