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 ADVANCED
Scout Lake
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Climb-A-Tize T 
Blues Streak S 
Ed's Route T 
Gone With the Wind T 
Green Eggs and Ham T 
Guillotine S 
Hero Maker S 
Lustography S 
Novacaine T 
Shinangwav T,S 

Ed's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Fallis, Nathan Smith, 1998
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: grk10vq on Oct 3, 2011

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  • Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Ed's Route climbs a hard to protect, open book dihedral using various sized edges and fancy footwork. Follow the obvious seam up and left about 40 feet until you intersect the upper crack of Novacaine. Careful face climbing along with the crux mark the first 25 feet, holds and protection increase as the route does. Finish on a ledge and build an anchor. Walk off.

    To sum it up: quality rock, difficult and tricky protection, fun.

    Location 

    Directly right of the obvious crack/roof route Novacaine; set in the center of the Scout Lake Buttress.

    Protection 

    Cams and stoppers, brass type or micro nuts, a few long slings and some draws. Expect marginal protection. Build your own anchor.


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