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Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) 

5.8 C1+

   
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Type: Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.8 C1+ [details]
FA: unknown
Season: shady, summer ok
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 11, 2010

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Description 

North face of spire so it is shady most days. When the small TCU's started skating (a lot!), I drove in a pin and pendulumed right to a chimney. A repeat won't need pins (beakage) unless they want to tackle the direct finish. At the obvious ledge 10' below the summit I found a drilled angle (not TG's). Two older ropes still rap the summit. Aiding is awkward but not devious.


Location 

North face of tower.


Protection 

stoppers, double plus cams from smallest to #3, one #4, one #5. Aliens ARE BETTER than 3cu's, but they still move.