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 ADVANCED
Central Reservation Climbs
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Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 
Dead Horse Spire T 
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 
Lucky Strike Spire T 
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 
Pope (Supreme Being) T 
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 
Round Rock (S E Side) T 
Smith Spire West Face T 
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 
Whale, NE Arete, The T 
Window Rock III (Crag) T 

Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1+ [details]
FA: unknown
Season: shady, summer ok
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 11, 2010

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Description 

North face of spire so it is shady most days. When the small TCU's started skating (a lot!), I drove in a pin and pendulumed right to a chimney. A repeat won't need pins (beakage) unless they want to tackle the direct finish. At the obvious ledge 10' below the summit I found a drilled angle (not TG's). Two older ropes still rap the summit. Aiding is awkward but not devious.


Location 

North face of tower.


Protection 

stoppers, double plus cams from smallest to #3, one #4, one #5. Aliens ARE BETTER than 3cu's, but they still move.



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