Edgeumacated 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Dan Lautzenheiser, Brian Bennet |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dan Lautzenheiser on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Description P1: 100 feet. About 40 feet right of "John Henry" start up the low angle crack. 4th class climbing with optional gear to 2'' leads to a wide ledge with gear to 1'' for the belay, also a bomber small stopper placement.
P2: 170 feet. Head up the slab. There is a small horizontal pocket that takes a good green alien size cam. About 60' of 5.4-5.7 climbing and 3 bolts gets you to the real climbing. Past the 3rd bolt is sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing almost all the way to the belay. Look for small positive edges for the hands and feet. 9 bolts.
Top of P2 has a bolted 2 bolt anchor. Rappel with 2 60m ropes just hits the ground. You can also continue up 30 feet on 5.6 terrain to the anchors for John Henry for an even more direct start to the direct northwest face.
Location About 40 feet right of John Henry, start up the low angle crack to a nice ledge.
Protection gear to 1.5'' for the belay.
optional gear to 2'' for approach pitch.
optional green alien or blue TCU cam size before 1st bolt on P2.
By Greg Barnes
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b PG13
| Sandbaggers! We found a couple distinct sections (after the 3rd bolt and after the 8th bolt) which would be solid 10a even without the sustained climbing. The moves to the right and above the 8th bolt - which is at the lip of a bulge/rooflet - definitely take the leader into a "really-don't-want-to-fall" zone. A bit of lichen here and there but generally clean. Excellent, sustained climb!
First 4th class pitch is more like 50 feet. We didn't spot the first bolt and set the belay to the right of where Dan & Brian did - and that spot was all 1.5" cracks (could have used multiple 1.5" cams to set a belay).
No need for the green alien, it's 5.4 there and the first bolt is only a few feet higher. |
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