|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dan Lautzenheiser, Brian Bennet|
|Submitted By:||Dan Lautzenheiser on Aug 14, 2011|
|Comments on Edgeumacated||Add Comment|
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By Greg Barnes
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Sandbaggers! We found a couple distinct sections (after the 3rd bolt and after the 8th bolt) which would be solid 10a even without the sustained climbing. The moves to the right and above the 8th bolt - which is at the lip of a bulge/rooflet - definitely take the leader into a "really-don't-want-to-fall" zone. A bit of lichen here and there but generally clean. Excellent, sustained climb!
First 4th class pitch is more like 50 feet. We didn't spot the first bolt and set the belay to the right of where Dan & Brian did - and that spot was all 1.5" cracks (could have used multiple 1.5" cams to set a belay).
No need for the green alien, it's 5.4 there and the first bolt is only a few feet higher.