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 ADVANCED
Leominster State Forest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Edges and Ledges T 
Gulla Gulla Gully T 
Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 

Edges and Ledges 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: spring, summer and fall
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013

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Description 

On the left portion of the cliff to the right of a large, fractured roof is a dirty recess. To the right of that recess is a narrow, short, dirty chimney/corner.

Climb the recess to slopey face moves until you find a horizontal for a small, blue cam. Then trend left to the arete right of another roof. Follow the path of least resistance to the top at a nice overlook. With some cleaning, this climb will be more fun. The 5.6 moves are to get you to the first cam placement and the climb eases significantly after that. Good footwork is helpful at the start. A harder start on cleaner rock can be found to the right, but there is no pro until you reach the ledge.


Location 

This is left of the rock formation.


Protection 

Adequate pro can be found. Once at the arete a bomber 0.75 cam slots nicely in a horizontal to the left of the arete which can be easily missed. Long slings were helpful.



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