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 ADVANCED
(2) Hanging Gardens
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B.F.D. T 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Edges and Ledges T,TR 
From Something to Nothing S 
Fun in the Mud T 
Giant's Staircase T,TR 
Grace and Danger T,TR 
Hammer, The T,TR 
Hanging Gardens Route T 
Hobbit Hole T 
Loose Block Overhang T 
Sandy's Direct T 
Scorpion Seam S 
Sesame Street T 
Sickle, The T,TR 
Slapfest S 
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 
So Embarrassing T 
Tips City T 

Edges and Ledges 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,832
Submitted By: Ebb on Jun 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BETA PHOTO: Edges and Ledges 5.8

Description 

Follow the crack/dihedral up to the ledge on top of the overhanging block.  This section can be led using trad.  From there, head up to the left and around the corner (crux).  Then face climb to the anchors.  There are bolts on this second section.  Per  Tim Olson's book:  "Climb up the left corner of (the) detached block, and step onto a large ledge, then embark up left onto the bolted prow and face climb on interesting edges to the belay anchor above."A top rope can be placed by taking the trail up to the left and around behind the routes.

Location 

Start to the right of Giant's Staircase, but to the left of the large overhanging block (tomahawk).  2nd route (L to R) on the left half of Hanging Gardens Wall.

Protection 

TR or mixed trad/sport (trad start).  Pro to 2" and 4 QD's.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The holds on this route are super-polished. I don't even want to think about trying to pull down if it's wet at all. There is a greased-up, glassy-smooth ledge just as you get into the bolted section that is of particular concern. One slip on those tiny polished edges and you're taking a tumble. Holds are there, but this route scares the beejees outta me!
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this route last weekend as a warmup. It was a lot more fun than I expected, being a ledgy 5.8. The footholds are a bit polished, but it's not really a big deal IMO.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 12, 2012

Great diverse route. I wasn't bothered by any polishing, it just feels like another Broughton Bluff basalt route... I would argue that the bolted section felt very tricky!
By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I just lead up this one a few weeks back and I expected it to be a cake-walk, but that was not the story. I am glad I'm not the only one that thought the rock was super polished. Did you guys do a short traverse after clipping the first bolt and climb on the left of the column where the obvious foot holds are? Initially I tried a heal hook, but it was a bit awkward and required immense flexibility; then I found the ledge on the other side.
By Josh Golden Eagle
Jul 11, 2012

Hello Burk,
I do a short traverse towards the left in the area of the first bolt. Heel hook sounds fun though!
By Rich C
Nov 11, 2012

I did this as my first ever basalt climb yesterday (just moved from Colorado). I was impressed in the quality of movement and variety of holds and positions. If you are tall, add a grade and skip the obvious rest on top of the huge ledge. fire straight up the head wall for a fun runout above a bomber #2. I didnt feel greasy and the rock was of fine quality. Lots of high feet!!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Burk S......no, did the move straight up off the top of the pillar, right of the 1st bolt. Cool move with just smears for the feet. Probably harder than 5.8 this way, but WELL protected. I definitely agree with Colin's comments regarding the feet.