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Boulder Slips
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Slips T,TR 
Brand New Bosch S 
Colorado Senior Open T,S 
Edges and Ledges S 
Family Guy T,S 
La Lune S 
Minutia T 
Minutia Arete TR 
My Way T,S 
Party Time! T,S 
Pumpkin Corner T 
Ride, The T,S 
Same As It Ever Was T,S 
Sunlight Arete S 
Threshold Variation T,TR 
Threshold, The T 
Throttle, The T,TR 
Useless One T,TR 
Where's Bob? T,S 

Edges and Ledges 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, Yvonne D'Andrea, Mike Borkowski, 10/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,865
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Boulder Slips.
  • Poison Ivy Alert MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Edges and Ledges is a fun new sport route on the left side of Boulder Slips. It climbs a steep face about 30' left of Minutia. It's well-bolted, and a great lead for someone breaking into 5.8 sport.

    Start at the same place as for Minutia, at the base of a slab on the left side of Boulder Slips, about 100' above the road.

    Climb an easy slab up to the steep face. Stay away from the gully on the left, which has some loose rock. Clip the first bolt, and work up the face, with many good edges and ledges, past 8 bolts to a nice ledge at the top. Lower 80' back to the start. Avoid the loose gully on the left when lowering -- stay on the slab to the right.


    Location 

    On the left side of Boulder Slips, about 100' above the road, at the base of a slab.


    Protection 

    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.



    Photos of Edges and Ledges Slideshow Add Photo
    From the ledge at the anchor... looking down at the line! Incredible climb!
    From the ledge at the anchor... looking down at th...
    Alison Conrad on Edges and Ledges and Bruno Haché on Brand New Bosch.
    Alison Conrad on Edges and Ledges and Bruno Haché ...
    Boulder Slips Route Overview <br /> <br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts <br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts <br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" <br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" <br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR <br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" <br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts <br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts <br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR <br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR <br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" <br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" <br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots <br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview

    1. Edges and Ledges,...
    Greg Hand cranking a move near the top.
    Greg Hand cranking a move near the top.
    Ron Olsen enjoying the first lead, after Bruno worked his butt off installing all the bolts.  Photo by Bruno Hache.
    Ron Olsen enjoying the first lead, after Bruno wor...
    Yvonne D'Andrea enjoying the steep face climbing on Edges and Ledges.
    Yvonne D'Andrea enjoying the steep face climbing o...
    Brenda Leach at the final moves.
    Brenda Leach at the final moves.
    Bruno Haché cutting loose at the last bolt. Showoff!
    Bruno Haché cutting loose at the last bolt. Showof...
    At a nice ledge in the middle. Great route!
    At a nice ledge in the middle. Great route!
    Mike Borkowski scoping out the line on our first day on the route.
    Mike Borkowski scoping out the line on our first d...
    Mark mid-route.
    Mark mid-route.
    Comments on Edges and Ledges Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 12, 2014
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2006

    In my opinion, this route is going to be very popular and deservedly so. It is very nicely and safely bolted for the newer 5.8 leader, easy approach, and great climbing! Nice and steep for a moderate with fun moves along the way.

    By Mike Jay
    Mar 9, 2007

    This is a great route! incredible bolting! Kudos to the FA. Have fun!

    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 26, 2007

    Excellent route at the grade. Steep jug-hauling all the way to the anchors. The crux is getting to the base of the route without touching the Poison Ivy. It's everywhere.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 11, 2009

    The approach is very loose directly at the base of this route. My partner knocked a few VERY large rocks down almost all the way to the road when he alighted upon terra not so firma after sending this glorious route. Be careful.

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 12, 2009

    When you're climbing or descending from this route, stay out of the loose gully on the left, and stay on the slab to the right. There are a number of loose rocks in and left of the gully that are too big to trundle, since they might go all the way to the road. Please do your best to avoid them.

    By Rebecca
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Apr 29, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is a great fun route! Positive holds and nice bolt placements make for a nice lead. Some of the really loose rock in the gully to the left came down on us today, although not quite down to the road and it cleared out the gully a bit, but it's still pretty bad, so a great idea to avoid it, as previously mentioned. Since the area is still relatively new, there was some loose rock falling as we were climbing - just be aware.

    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jun 13, 2009

    For a moderate route, it doesn't get much better than this! The spacing between bolts will be comforting for a leader new to the grade and the anchor set-up is really convenient for quick on-and-off. Like Gary said, I suspect this route is going to be quite popular. One of your better efforts, Ron, et al!

    By dseltzer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2011

    This is a great fall climb, as well as the 5.9 to the left. Stays free of snow for the most part and gets good sun.

    By Hiro
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 13, 2012

    Not bad, not great. Very convenient to climb and go, look out for the poison ivy warnings - the little plants with berries are growing up (April 2012). :) The gully is pretty clear of rolling rocks, it's mainly the approach that will send the rocks downwards.

    The obvious belay position below the first bolt has minimal places to stand and you'd have to attach yourself to the bolt to ensure that you won't go for a tumble. You could belay from the bottom of the gully way far from the face I guess - we were able to rap down from the anchor to the bottom of the gully on a single 60m rope.

    By James Hicks
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 22, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is a fun climb and one of the best 5.8 climbs I have come across in BC. I was just there yesterday, and the poison ivy is just starting to leaf out. So it would probably be safe for a bit longer, but you could see that once its in full bloom it would be EVERYWHERE in the immediate area. In reference to the comment above, I'm not sure why you would belay from the first bolt, that seems needless since there is an obvious belay spot at the bottom of the route. This can safely be done with a 60m rope as well.

    By jamandbees
    From: Nederland, Colorado
    Nov 2, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Most of the loose boulders earlier commenters mention appear to be gone. The approach gully definitely has a couple of blocks that I'd rather not trust, but you don't have to go anywhere near them, and if you do touch them, they're not precariously balanced.

    The climb itself is pretty clean and definitely a good intro for a new 5.8 leader.

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Feb 12, 2014
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    This is a fun route which looks like it will be harder than it really is. It does have big edges and ledges.