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Edger Sanction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,270
Submitted By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
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At the crux of Edger Sanction.

Description 

True to it's name this quality route features fairly continuous thin edge climbing for most of it's length and is stout for the grade.

Boulder directly up to a high first bolt (or traverse from the left via some easier moves) then make the crux moves on the way to the 2nd bolt after which the size of the holds increase and it eases off in difficulty.


Location 

Just left of Rat Crack.


Protection 

3 bolts, 3 bolt anchor/rap (all 3'8")



Photos of Edger Sanction Slideshow Add Photo
Edger is just left of the Rat Crack.  Several variations lead to the large brown spot in the lower right section of the picture.  This gains the first bolt.  A delicate and wandering sequence takes one to the second bolt (through the crux).  Finish up and right to bolted anchors on the slab right of Rat Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Edger is just left of the Rat Crack. Several vari...
Edger Sanction (5.10a), Lake Perris SRA
BETA PHOTO: Edger Sanction (5.10a), Lake Perris SRA
Comments on Edger Sanction Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 27, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This route starts by traversing right using some delicate footwork. A few committing moves gets one to the first bolt. Moreover, the stance when clipping the second bolt can be a bit tenuous. The bolts are placed where they have to be, but this route is kinda stern for Big Rock.

By Pat W
Apr 30, 2006

One of Big Rock's best. Clean thin edges, sustained. Might want a spot to the first bolt.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Short, yes, but my favorite route at BR! The crux is a beautifully delicate sequence on dime edges. I have led this starting from the left, from the right, and straight up; all about the same difficulty. A BR must do.

By EJH
From: Menifee, CA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

If this route was three times taller it would be a classic! Best route at Big Rock!

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Left, right, or straight up? Bill is right on, it's all about the same. The landing has gotten uglier over the years and a pad and/or a spotter would inspire confidence while seeking the 1st clip. The age of sticky rubber eased the sting a bit, but as Bill indicated, those dime edges (some larger) are a great test of your edging skills. Totally agree, this is one of the best routes at Big Rock.

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012

I don't know what ways best but you can TR it after leading rat crack.