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Northwest Recess
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Consolation Direct, The T 
Consolation, The T 
Constellation T 
Edgehogs T 
Error, The T 
Farewell Horizontal T,S 
Gulp, The T 
Incision, The T 
Long Climb, The T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Sahara Terror T 
Snakes on Everything T 
Souvenir, The T 
Special K S,TR 
Swallow, The T 
Whodunit T 
Wong Climb T 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: P1 & 2: Bob Gaines and Clark Jacobs, 8/92. P3 & 4: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Bob Austin, 7/97, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, 8/98
Season: Spring through Fall depending upon conditions
Page Views: 4,558
Submitted By: Murf on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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The Meat Puppet smiling on Edgehogs' second pitch.


P1: (5.10A) - Follow the corner left of Whodunit to a short crack with a pin and a bolt. Continue to bolted belay.

P2: (5.11-) - Move up and clip a bolt. Make a very tricky move (5.10+) to the right and up for the next bolt. The pin in the 2001 guide is missing, a small cam will fit. Continue up through 5 more bolts with a 5.11 move (never truly on the arete ). Move right toward the arete for another cruxy section over the roof to a 2 bolt belay in an alcove.

P3: (5.10) - Tricky 5.10 moves on a rounded arete past three bolts to another 2 bolt belay.

P4: (5.10-) - Up from the belay for a pin and/or a bolt. Touch Whodunit for a move or two while searching for the best move left onto the higher face. After the move left, you can either clip a bolt and loop left then back right(farther than seems prudent). The better way to is unlock the upward moves almost directly above the bolt. Continue through a corner to another two bolt belay.

P5/P6: I have never climbed P5 or P6. From the P4 belay, the moves up some roofs/cracks seem improbable. I have always continued onto Magical Mystery Tour, even when I knew I wasn't on route.

P7 (5.10): At the base of the upper headway,stem into a large corner. Clip a pin on the left and work your way to the left lip. The bolt is a bit farther left than one may think (I had already put some gear in when I discovered it at my waist). Jam through the roof high stepping left.


A few bolts and maybe some gear on pitch 1. Eight bolts, the pin marked in the guidebook is missing and can be supplemented with a small cam on pitch 2. Pitch 3 is fully bolted and has the last rap station (2 ropes).

Photos of Edgehogs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An unknown climber on Edgehogs.....great position....
An unknown climber on Edgehogs.....great position....
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view looking down, somewhere on second pit...
Another view looking down, somewhere on second pit...

Comments on Edgehogs Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Wander up to a bolt anchor for pitch 1. I cheated and rapped off from the top of pitch 2 so I'll only describe my impressions of that...I have 5.11b scrawled in the margins of my dog-eared guide. There was a very tricky bit for me at the beginning of the second pitch, which felt quite hard. I failed to clip a bolt (got distracted by someone telling me I was off route, they thought I was on MMT) just before heading left up wavy/undulating rock - this gave me increasingly scary moments before getting to the next bolt - luckily I didn't fall. I brought Tony up and when he got to my missed clip I said to him "you'd think someone would have put a bolt right there" - he replied with "there is one".
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 11, 2006

Be sure to move left onto the face at the end of pitch 2. I took several falls trying to climb directly up the arete.

Also, I cut my rope when I slipped off pitch 4. I was tryign to climb up the arete (off route again -- you move left) when I slipped off. The rope scoured along the edge of the very sharp arete and it was cut almost halfway through. Very scary. I retied in below the cut and finished the pitch, quite shaken.
By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A great route! Pitch 2 has some incredibly sustained climbing with constantly cruxy climbing. The rock is clean, but not buffed to a porcelain polish. Protection is definitely adequate, but not overabundant. The pin on P2 is gone - bring small nuts or cams to protect that section.

So hard to pin a rating on this one, but I'll try. Here's our pitch breakdown.

P1: 5.10a. The topo in the guidebook has a minor error - the bolt (home-made angle steel hanger) appears before the pin. Small cams and some nuts can supplement those two.

P2: 5.10c. The money pitch. Long, sustained, and full of well protected cruxes. The move off the belay isn't that bad once you figure out the beta. The technical crux arrives about 2/3 of the way up when you wander slightly left away from the arete, smearing up the mildly featured slab. The pin after the second bolt it missing, but a small nut or small-med cam can help protect that section.

P3: 5.10d. Short, but scrappy! I thought the moves past the 3rd bolt were harder than any moves on the second pitch. A piece or two of small nuts/cams might add to your comfort on this one.

P4: 5.10b. One crux appears passing the roof and the second slapping up the arete a good distance above the last bolt (Scotty commented that this is off-route, but I disagree). A few carefully placed small nuts and cams again protect the upper crux on this one.\

P5: 5.9. A fist crack up off of the belay wanders up easier cracks (I may have gone too far left at this point and was likely off-route) to an awkward roof section, then a thin crack in a left-facing corner to a belay about 30' below a big overhang in a left-facing corner. Thin to med gear for this pitch. No bolts or pins were seen.

P6: 5.10a. Scramble up to the overhang and pass it via some funky stemming/bridging, then climb up, then right on runout slabs to join Whodunit at the tree below the 5.2 roof.

P7: 5.2 Scramble to the top.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

P4 on this was an intense lead. The pro in the last 50 feet to the anchors is bad and extremely fiddly. A heads up pitch for sure. The rock is somewhat dirty, slippery and exfoliating, which adds to your concerns (probably due to the fact that this route turns into a water fall when it rains - I witnessed this first hand). I destinctly remembering wanting to shit my pants near the top of the 4th pitch when I was 40 feet above good gear and looking at another hard(er) series of movements to easier terrain (arete slapping/laybacking, smearing on lichen covered rock). I had some questionable gear that might have held closer to me, but it wasn't great. The best pitch is pitch 2 for sure. A brilliant pitch. I would recommend doing the first three pitches. The fourth isn't that great and very mental. Contrary to the description by the OP, all the anchors on the first 4 pitches are bolted with rap rings, and you can rap down with 2 ropes. If I had brought my DMM offset nuts, the 4th pitch may have been much more casual... I looked at the topo after getting down and there is supposed to be a piton up there, but I didn't find it.

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