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Edgehogs 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: P1 & 2: Bob Gaines and Clark Jacobs, 8/92. P3 & 4: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Bob Austin, 7/97, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, 8/98
Season: Spring through Fall depending upon conditions
Page Views: 3,926
Submitted By: Murf on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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An unknown climber on Edgehogs.....great position....

Description 

P1: (5.10A) - Follow the corner left of Whodunit to a short crack with a pin and a bolt. Continue to bolted belay.

P2: (5.11-) - Move up and clip a bolt. Make a very tricky move (5.10+) to the right and up for the next bolt. The pin in the 2001 guide is missing, a small cam will fit. Continue up through 5 more bolts with a 5.11 move (never truly on the arete ). Move right toward the arete for another cruxy section over the roof to a 2 bolt belay in an alcove.

P3: (5.10) - Tricky 5.10 moves on a rounded arete past three bolts to another 2 bolt belay.

P4: (5.10-) - Up from the belay for a pin and/or a bolt. Touch Whodunit for a move or two while searching for the best move left onto the higher face. After the move left, you can either clip a bolt and loop left then back right(farther than seems prudent). The better way to is unlock the upward moves almost directly above the bolt. Continue through a corner to another two bolt belay.

P5/P6: I have never climbed P5 or P6. From the P4 belay, the moves up some roofs/cracks seem improbable. I have always continued onto Magical Mystery Tour, even when I knew I wasn't on route.

P7 (5.10): At the base of the upper headway,stem into a large corner. Clip a pin on the left and work your way to the left lip. The bolt is a bit farther left than one may think (I had already put some gear in when I discovered it at my waist). Jam through the roof high stepping left.

Protection 

A few bolts and maybe some gear on pitch 1. Eight bolts, the pin marked in the guidebook is missing and can be supplemented with a small cam on pitch 2. Pitch 3 is fully bolted and has the last rap station (2 ropes).


Photos of Edgehogs Slideshow Add Photo
View down the second pitch of Edgehogs.
View down the second pitch of Edgehogs.
The Meat Puppet smiling on Edgehogs' second pitch.
The Meat Puppet smiling on Edgehogs' second pitch.
Too Strong crushing the arete with "sustained full body compression" on the third pitch Edgehogs.
Too Strong crushing the arete with "sustained full...
Another view looking down, somewhere on second pitch.
Another view looking down, somewhere on second pit...

Comments on Edgehogs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Wander up to a bolt anchor for pitch 1. I cheated and rapped off from the top of pitch 2 so I'll only describe my impressions of that...I have 5.11b scrawled in the margins of my dog-eared guide. There was a very tricky bit for me at the beginning of the second pitch, which felt quite hard. I failed to clip a bolt (got distracted by someone telling me I was off route, they thought I was on MMT) just before heading left up wavy/undulating rock - this gave me increasingly scary moments before getting to the next bolt - luckily I didn't fall. I brought Tony up and when he got to my missed clip I said to him "you'd think someone would have put a bolt right there" - he replied with "there is one".
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 11, 2006

Be sure to move left onto the face at the end of pitch 2. I took several falls trying to climb directly up the arete.

Also, I cut my rope when I slipped off pitch 4. I was tryign to climb up the arete (off route again -- you move left) when I slipped off. The rope scoured along the edge of the very sharp arete and it was cut almost halfway through. Very scary. I retied in below the cut and finished the pitch, quite shaken.
By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A great route! Pitch 2 has some incredibly sustained climbing with constantly cruxy climbing. The rock is clean, but not buffed to a porcelain polish. Protection is definitely adequate, but not overabundant. The pin on P2 is gone - bring small nuts or cams to protect that section.

So hard to pin a rating on this one, but I'll try. Here's our pitch breakdown.

P1: 5.10a. The topo in the guidebook has a minor error - the bolt (home-made angle steel hanger) appears before the pin. Small cams and some nuts can supplement those two.

P2: 5.10c. The money pitch. Long, sustained, and full of well protected cruxes. The move off the belay isn't that bad once you figure out the beta. The technical crux arrives about 2/3 of the way up when you wander slightly left away from the arete, smearing up the mildly featured slab. The pin after the second bolt it missing, but a small nut or small-med cam can help protect that section.

P3: 5.10d. Short, but scrappy! I thought the moves past the 3rd bolt were harder than any moves on the second pitch. A piece or two of small nuts/cams might add to your comfort on this one.

P4: 5.10b. One crux appears passing the roof and the second slapping up the arete a good distance above the last bolt (Scotty commented that this is off-route, but I disagree). A few carefully placed small nuts and cams again protect the upper crux on this one.\

P5: 5.9. A fist crack up off of the belay wanders up easier cracks (I may have gone too far left at this point and was likely off-route) to an awkward roof section, then a thin crack in a left-facing corner to a belay about 30' below a big overhang in a left-facing corner. Thin to med gear for this pitch. No bolts or pins were seen.

P6: 5.10a. Scramble up to the overhang and pass it via some funky stemming/bridging, then climb up, then right on runout slabs to join Whodunit at the tree below the 5.2 roof.

P7: 5.2 Scramble to the top.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

P4 on this was an intense lead. The pro in the last 50 feet to the anchors is bad and extremely fiddly. A heads up pitch for sure. The rock is somewhat dirty, slippery and exfoliating, which adds to your concerns (probably due to the fact that this route turns into a water fall when it rains - I witnessed this first hand). I destinctly remembering wanting to shit my pants near the top of the 4th pitch when I was 40 feet above good gear and looking at another hard(er) series of movements to easier terrain (arete slapping/laybacking, smearing on lichen covered rock). I had some questionable gear that might have held closer to me, but it wasn't great. The best pitch is pitch 2 for sure. A brilliant pitch. I would recommend doing the first three pitches. The fourth isn't that great and very mental. Contrary to the description by the OP, all the anchors on the first 4 pitches are bolted with rap rings, and you can rap down with 2 ropes. If I had brought my DMM offset nuts, the 4th pitch may have been much more casual... I looked at the topo after getting down and there is supposed to be a piton up there, but I didn't find it.