Edgehogs 

Wander up to a bolt anchor for pitch 1. I cheated and rapped off from the top of pitch 2 so I'll only describe my impressions of that...I have 5.11b scrawled in the margins of my dog-eared guide. There was a very tricky bit for me at the beginning of the second pitch, which felt quite hard. I failed to clip a bolt (got distracted by someone telling me I was off route, they thought I was on MMT) just before heading left up wavy/undulating rock - this gave me increasingly scary moments before getting to the next bolt - luckily I didn't fall. I brought Tony up and when he got to my missed clip I said to him "you'd think someone would have put a bolt right there" - he replied with "there is one".

Be sure to move left onto the face at the end of pitch 2. I took several falls trying to climb directly up the arete.

Also, I cut my rope when I slipped off pitch 4. I was tryign to climb up the arete (off route again -- you move left) when I slipped off. The rope scoured along the edge of the very sharp arete and it was cut almost halfway through. Very scary. I retied in below the cut and finished the pitch, quite shaken.

A great route! Pitch 2 has some incredibly sustained climbing with constantly cruxy climbing. The rock is clean, but not buffed to a porcelain polish. Protection is definitely adequate, but not overabundant. The pin on P2 is gone - bring small nuts or cams to protect that section.

So hard to pin a rating on this one, but I'll try. Here's our pitch breakdown.

P1: 5.10a. The topo in the guidebook has a minor error - the bolt (home-made angle steel hanger) appears before the pin. Small cams and some nuts can supplement those two.

P2: 5.10c. The money pitch. Long, sustained, and full of well protected cruxes. The move off the belay isn't that bad once you figure out the beta. The technical crux arrives about 2/3 of the way up when you wander slightly left away from the arete, smearing up the mildly featured slab. The pin after the second bolt it missing, but a small nut or small-med cam can help protect that section.

P3: 5.10d. Short, but scrappy! I thought the moves past the 3rd bolt were harder than any moves on the second pitch. A piece or two of small nuts/cams might add to your comfort on this one.

P4: 5.10b. One crux appears passing the roof and the second slapping up the arete a good distance above the last bolt (Scotty commented that this is off-route, but I disagree). A few carefully placed small nuts and cams again protect the upper crux on this one.\

P5: 5.9. A fist crack up off of the belay wanders up easier cracks (I may have gone too far left at this point and was likely off-route) to an awkward roof section, then a thin crack in a left-facing corner to a belay about 30' below a big overhang in a left-facing corner. Thin to med gear for this pitch. No bolts or pins were seen.

P6: 5.10a. Scramble up to the overhang and pass it via some funky stemming/bridging, then climb up, then right on runout slabs to join Whodunit at the tree below the 5.2 roof.

P7: 5.2 Scramble to the top.