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Edge of Time Arete T 
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Edge of Time Arete 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 2000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: mid summer to early fall
Page Views: 5,124
Submitted By: rocky233 on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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crux pitch. mid 10 jamming thru a bulge

Description 

Edge of Time follows the northeast arete and is long and sustained. It offers classic alpine climbing in a superb setting. A major issue in climbing this route is crossing the Kings River. If you go too early the river may not be crossable.

New Trip Report and New Improved Topo
click below
Citadel ... Edge of Time Arete


Location 

This route is on The Citadel's north face and follows the left most arete (northeast arete).


Protection 

No bolts, No pitons. Trad gear from small to 3.5"



Photos of Edge of Time Arete Slideshow Add Photo
the first crux. not really but you'll need some steak knives and golf shoes at least.
the first crux. not really but you'll need some st...
climbing off the snow
climbing off the snow
looking down P4 with other potential crack options in dihedral on on arete to the left
BETA PHOTO: looking down P4 with other potential crack options...
<a href='http://americannordwand.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >americannordwand.com</a>
looking down P1-3
looking down P1-3
approach/descent down into LeConte Canyon
approach/descent down into LeConte Canyon
P10, from the large sloping belay ledge step down and traverse right to reach a crack hidden from view
BETA PHOTO: P10, from the large sloping belay ledge step down ...
up high
up high
gettin scrappy...
gettin scrappy...
bergshrund behind which we tunneled to reach the start
bergshrund behind which we tunneled to reach the s...
flowers, splitter granite, blue skies....welcome to the Sierras
flowers, splitter granite, blue skies....welcome t...
Mike leading the "10a" crack on P4
Mike leading the "10a" crack on P4
first river crossing on pink slimed logs (not recommended)
first river crossing on pink slimed logs (not reco...
P7
P7
the Citadel
the Citadel
approach/descent
BETA PHOTO: approach/descent
Comments on Edge of Time Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 28, 2006

Thanks for sharing the link - lots of great info and pictures, plus a downloadable PDF topo.

By Reuben Shelton
May 31, 2009

First ascent by Dave Nettle and Jim Howle in the early 90's, impressively done in a push to and from Tahoe.

By fossana
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 5, 2011

This is not your typical High Sierra route. Many of the pitches are sustained for the grade. Given the lack of traffic the route is heavily vegetated with a large amount of lichen.

approach. We went in early Sep 2011 (a big snow year). The river crossings weren't too bad. I didn't feel like hunting for an optimal dry crossing so the best option for me was wading. We were able to access the route without crampons/ice axe by scrambling up the bergshrund.

descent. We took the gully directly from the summit that points directly toward Ladder Lake, contouring climber's right when it got difficult. With some down-climbing we only had to do one 100 ft rap.

NOTES ON THE ART MESSIER TOPO:

p4. The 10a crack marked here is harder than 10a (harder than the crux IMHO). Not sure if the original intent on the FA was to climb the thin crack in the dihedral. There's also a thin hands (for me) crack on the arete.

p5. Not really a pitch. It's ~30 ft of dihedral leading up to the roof.

p9. The pro was marginal getting up to the roof, but you can protect the thin traverse under the roof with a purple TCU.

p10. This is in the written description, but confusing from the topo. From the large sloping belay ledge step down and traverse right to reach the 5.9/9 crack.

As noted expect the rope lengths to be off. Otherwise the topo was quite helpful.

By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Mar 1, 2012

I don't know if it's just my computer, but the link doesn't open anymore. It's on my to-do list for the summer so I could really use that PDF! Thanks!

By fossana
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 9, 2012

I can't get to it either. Let me dig around and see if I saved a copy.

update:
Sorry, I checked my old laptop and backups. I didn't save the TR or topo. Also tried pulling up a cached copy from Google with no luck.

update 2:
There is a topo in Moynier & Fiddler at least in the 1993 version.

By Zoom Loco
Jun 14, 2012

Very big day to do car-to-car. The climbing is good, and sustained. There is a really good variation to go left from the top of the pillar (pitch 10); we put those beta details and some others in our TR here. pullharder.org/2012/06/14/almost-out-of-time-on-the-citadels>>>

By Fixius
From: Sherman Oaks, California
Oct 9, 2013

a