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 ADVANCED
The Prow Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pretty Face T 
Beast Flake, The T 
Edge of the World S 
Faux Pas Arete, The T,S 
Gypsy T 
Liquid Sky T,S 
Peanut Gallery Flake T 
Prow, The T 
Recompense T 
Women in Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Edge of the World 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Scott Franklin, 1987
Page Views: 3,701
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 19, 2010

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Edge of the World. Photo by Ladd Raine.

Description 

Edge of the World might be the single best pitch in all of New England. It is certainly one of the most dramatic. If the route were closer to the ground, the moves themselves would make Edge a four-star climb. But it's the exposure, oh the exposure, that ranks Edge of The World as one of the most classic rock climbs imaginable.

The climb begins at the Space Station belay, four pitches up the Prow. (Most people rap in to this belay from the top of the cliff). Edge shares Liquid Sky's insecure 12a moves off the belay. At Liquid Sky's first pin, Edge diverges left, up the soaring arete.

Gaining the arete is the crux of the route and involves a very hard pull off a small right-hand crimp. This crimp is the size usually reserved for footholds. Once on the arete, the climbing becomes incredible. Left hand slaps and right hand pinches characterize the movement through this section. The climbing here is powerful yet surprisingly precise and subtle.

After three well-spaced bolts of hard climbing, a runout leads to the top of the arete, where a fixed nut is usually in place. While the climbing in this section clocks in at "only" 10+, the exposure and potential for a 50-foot fall make this the mental crux of the route. At the very top of the arete, a jug allows the climber to lean back and take in the spectacular situation. This really is the edge of the world.


Protection 

One pin, three bolts, a fixed nut, and anchors. Two ropes (one to fix as a rap line, one to use for climbing.) Ascenders to climb back up to the top. Maybe a portaledge.


Rappel Approach 

Most people rap in from the big tree on top of the Prow. Of the two sets of anchors, Edge climbs to the ones closest to the Prow. The other anchors are for Liquid Sky. Once you rap to the top anchors, it is relatively easy to lower the climber down and top belay. If going for the lead, fix the rope and continue down to the Space Station belay.



Photos of Edge of the World Slideshow Add Photo
Edge of the World. Photo by Kayte Knower.
Edge of the World. Photo by Kayte Knower.
Bill Morse tr'ing Edge of the World, the left split off from the anchors to Liquid Sky.
Bill Morse tr'ing Edge of the World, the left spli...
Comments on Edge of the World Add Comment
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 19, 2010

Finally ! I have not done this climb, but I have flopped on it pretty good !!! WAY hard for '87. A bit longer than 50' Jay ?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 19, 2010

Do you think 70 feet? It is not as tall as it feels, that's for sure.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 20, 2010

Ya It felt like forever to me ! I know you can TR with a 50m so 70' is prolly right.