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 ADVANCED
Leaning Wall
Select Route:
Cosmic Trauma T 
Edge of Reason S 
Karmic Edges T,S 
Spaceshot 
Vernal Equinox T 

Edge of Reason 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Gaar Lausman Nov 09
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Sunny or Rain
Page Views: 1,061
Submitted By: Gaar on Dec 20, 2009

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Hand topo

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Description 

Climb dead vertical to overhung face below cosmic trauma..The route ends at a chossy break just below the summit.

P1 60ft 5.11c..Step off the pillar and climb big sidepulls and sharp edges to the first crux at the 4th-5th bolt. Trend left to a two bolt anchor at the left.

P2 90ft 5.11c..Step left off the belay to good stance and climb overhanging crimps just right of the flake system, when possible reach out and climb the flake to a 2 foot roof. Clip the fixed draw and climb the 2nd crux on a hard sequence of decent holds. (while at the fixed draw look right and ponder another sequence through the blankness) after the roof work back toward the center of the wall.

P3 5.11- 90ft.. The money pitch. Head straight up the wall following good holds, and long reaches to an good stance below a 3 foot roof. Make your way through the roof on huge hidden holds and a handjam or two finish right at the anchor.

Location 

Climb/scramble/solo the first pitch of Spacshot and begin on the pillar to the left of the start for the 2nd pitch.

Protection 

12ish draws and slings.. Single 60m rope


Photos of Edge of Reason Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up P1
Looking up P1
Look up at p3
Look up at p3
Looking Down p2
Looking Down p2
Potato chip crimping at its best!! p2
Potato chip crimping at its best!! p2
Zach at the route crux p2
Zach at the route crux p2
looking down between the legs on rap P3
looking down between the legs on rap P3

Comments on Edge of Reason Add Comment
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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 20, 2009

Thanks to Calvin for the hangover belay, and freeing this with me the day after halloween!
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Feb 1, 2014

Great Route Gaar, I really enjoyed it. cleaning up a little still pretty crispy and sandy