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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Edge of Reality 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Tony B on May 18, 2003
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Description 

This route is marked as route #2 in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book. Standing near the base of the Bihedral dihedral or Bihedral Arete, look left past the Heterohedral to a tower-like buttress that creates the vertical horizon. The edge of this is the route at hand. Scoot over to this by walking left on the big ledge, then scrambling up and over on a thin ledge system (4th class, but leave your pack at the base and put on your shoes beforehand if you want to feel good about it) and then to the base of the climb. Belay between a nasty bush and the wall.

The first clip is good, which is misleading. The second clip is nasty -- you have a choice between a huge reach off of a wrist-wrenching, finger-pumping undercling (I'm 5'10" and have ape-like arms and this was really pushing it) or doing a 5.11 move with bad feet to a slick hold to clip from. Either way, the clip sucks and I don't know why it was placed where it was. The next few moves are the crux, on bad hands and feet. Proceeding upwards, you will see more evidence of the botched bolting job including a sleeve with no bolt, two bolts 2 feet apart, etc... All remaining bolts look good though. Some holds were releasing crystals of rock under hand and foot. Up near the top the thank-god hold is covered in reeking bird crap.

I'll finish with the disclaimer that I hung on this route several times, and grabbed a sling to clip up high on it (4th or 5th?) in case that affects your interpretation of my description of this route. In my subjective pont of view, even though I had hung on it, I'd still be able to call it good if it had been -- it just wasn't. Most of the pump came from the second clip, not the moves, and most of the fall potential from a few slippery or crumbling holds, not from difficulty of the moves. My partner (who can climb at that level) declined to even try the route. I do admit that a better climber than I would have flashed it, but after seeing it, probably wouldn't have bothered.

On the way down I cleaned it in so much as possible with my bare hands. Hopefully this will have improved the route.


Protection 

A set of draws.



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By Jason Anderson
Oct 26, 2006

Fun puzzles on interesting features. The bolts were comfortable for me, so thanks to whomever did it.