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 ADVANCED
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Line T 
Boss Man, The T 
Chips Block T 
Edge of Night T 
Ending Crack T 
Glory Days S 
Half Ascent T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Roadside Cracks T 
Tree Root T 
Wasp/The Sting, The T 
White Spider, The T 

Edge of Night 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Feb 13, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Edge of Night (5.7 R) follows the red line up the ...

Description 

A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.

Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. Better yet, place two for some added security. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with occasional 20 foot runouts between gear.

Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.


Location 

Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.

2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.


Protection 

A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.

Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)



Photos of Edge of Night Slideshow Add Photo
Finally got some gear! Erik H on lead
Finally got some gear! Erik H on lead
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By Richard Shore
Feb 14, 2011

This is one of the most visually appealing routes on the Black Wall; second only to the Ending Crack.

While the climbing is relatively easy, the leader must not fall. Simple.

May it forever remain bolt-free (with the exception of the rap anchor, which I assume was placed ONLY to save the small pine tree atop the route).