|Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Edge of Night
BETA PHOTO: Edge of Night (5.7 R) follows the red line up the ...
A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.
Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. Better yet, place two for some added security. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with occasional 20 foot runouts between gear.
Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.
Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.
2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.
A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.
Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)
Finally got some gear! Erik H on lead
|Comments on Edge of Night
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 14, 2011
This is one of the most visually appealing routes on the Black Wall; second only to the Ending Crack.
While the climbing is relatively easy, the leader must not fall. Simple.
May it forever remain bolt-free (with the exception of the rap anchor, which I assume was placed ONLY to save the small pine tree atop the route).