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 ADVANCED
Center Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Edge of Fire 
Great Escape 
Sentinel Buttress 
Super Direct 
Unsorted Routes:

Edge of Fire 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Lee and Pat Munson (1979)
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 25, 2009
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Description 

Cool, varied climbing with a pumpy crux and amazing position. Potential for huge, clean falls onto the only bolt on the route. Probably the best introduction to climbing on the spectacular Fire Wall.


Location 

Front side of Sentinal Buttress. Start on Super Direct. You will notice that the dihedral feature actually goes into Edge of Fire naturally. Can be done in one pitch plus a short and easy roped scramble to Crows Nest.


Protection 

Standard rack, one bolt, gear belay. Protects very well, especially for the Fire Wall.



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By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Bolt was replaced years ago. Old bolt left there for chuckles, See if you can make it fail!

By Ben Sachs
Jul 1, 2009

I took a huge (40 ft?) whip (fell from belay ledge mantle!) onto the drilled angle bolt. Of course I backed it up with new bolt, but the old one took the force. It bent slightly but was fine!

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great route, and some of the best exposure you can find at the grade at Moore's. Would highly recommend for someone wanting a firewall adventure who isn't quite up to the other offerings. Any reason this is grouped with Central Buttress routes when it pretty clearly climbs the Firewall side, albeit the edge, of the formation?

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This route is not run-out after the crux bolt as pro is available before the final moves surmounting the bulge.