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 ADVANCED
Arid Piles - Northwest Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
29 Palms T 
39 Slaps, The T 
Edge of Doom T 
Hare Today, Gone Tomorrow TR 
Mr. Bunny Quits T 
Napkin of Shame T 
Nice and Steep and Elbow Deep T 
Outsiders, The T 
Quarter Moon Crack T 
Spinner T 

Edge of Doom 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charles Cole and Marjorie Shovlin, 1982
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The technical crux, as interpreted circa 1987. Cli...

Description 

Start from a small boulder on the right side of the base. The climb is an excellent exposed steep face. The 5.10B thin face at the top is runout.

Location 

Southeast of the route 29 Palms, a tall steep block has this route running up its exposed outer edge, Scramble up a ways from the ground to get to the base of the block.

Protection 

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap


Photos of Edge of Doom Slideshow Add Photo
The old hardware.
The old hardware.
Edge of Doom, 5.10
BETA PHOTO: Edge of Doom, 5.10
Edge of Doom (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
Edge of Doom (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
One of the old protection bolts looks like it coul...
One of the old protection bolts looks like it coul...

Comments on Edge of Doom Add Comment
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By Ben H
Mar 2, 2009

This route seems kind of sketch. I think I could pull the hangars off of the 1/4" bolts, or bolts completely out of the rock at bolt 3, maybe at 2, and two hangars off at the anchor. A substantial fall on this route would not be good. It is PG 13 assuming the bolts hold. I'd suggest rebolting, or giving it an R/X so that hopeful 10b climbers don't get seriously hurt/killed.

Otherwise the climb is a really fun climb with good opening moves.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 22, 2010

The aging hardware on this route has received a major upgrade.

Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced all the old 1/4 inch bolts (2 protection and 2 anchor bolts) with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts (courtesy American Safe Climbing Association). The first bolt is still a good 3/8 inch 5-piece rawl replaced by Kevin some years ago. There was also a 3/8 inch threaded rawl drive at the top anchor that looked OK (replaced the hanger).

A spectacular route, now with new bolts!
By Ben H
Apr 25, 2010

That's really awesome Bob. Thank you. I had stressed a bit about that routes safety. I felt obligated to go and do that myself. Better that someone who knows better than myself get it done instead. Its such a fun route, but left alone I could see someone getting hurt or worse. I'm sure it'll get plenty more traffic now.
By Nick Barczak
May 11, 2013

Bob,

thanks for doing that upgrade! I had always wanted to climb this route but was a bit wary of the aged gear on it. Next time I'm in JT, I'll climb it for sure!