Edge of Anxiety
|527 page views|
This is a link up of Unfinished Symphony, Anxiety State and Diamondback. The only new climbing on this route is the traverse left from Unfinished Symphony. This traverse is found by climbing to the first bolt on the second 10d pitch of that route, clipping it and then downclimbing until you can cross the vertical wall that divides the tiers of slab. Depending on where you start moving left, it may be very difficult without employing some tension from the rope. The rest of the traverse is probably 5.9+ and finishes with the bolt you clipped about 20 feet horizontally to your right! Despite that, it might be wise to have the weaker climber in the party, if it's an issue, lead the traverse since seconding it leaves you even more exposed at the moment you unclip the bolt (you can, however, place some cams below the bolt to protect your downclimb).
Starts on Unfinished Symphony (which itself starts on Snake).
As for Unfinished Symphony.
Simon about to leave Unfinished Symphony and trave...
Simon on Anxiety State which traverses left across...
|Comments on Edge of Anxiety
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
May 10, 2009
Traverse is spicy, but not too bad overall. .10a is probably a fair grade, but I agree that it gets easier the farther left you go. Don't fall.