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Ed and Terry Wall
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Edge-n-Scary 
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Vote for Your Mom 
Y Crack, The 

Edge-n-Scary 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian & Jim Knight
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Christian Knight on May 7, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: 10 Edge-n-Scary 5.11a

Description 

P1 (5.8, 50') Starts in a mungy slot/corner a few feet left of Captured for Rapture. This pitch requires some medium-sized pieces of gear. After you pull the slightly overhanging slot you kind of get on a little fingerish crack on the north side and that takes you to a tiny ledge with an anchor (one chain, one hanger).

P2 (5.11a, 60') Move over a fun roof (crux) and continue up the now moderate face staying really close to the arete.


Location 

Starts up a short "dike" underneath the left side of the double roofs on the left of the Ed and Terry Wall.


Protection 

P1 Medium gear, bolted anchor (one chain, one hanger).

P2 7 bolts, bolted anchor.



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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 9, 2008

For the sheer position you end up in, this route warrants a fourth star! One of the coolest lines in the RC. I remember it was pretty simple for the grade but still solid. This route is one of the canyons "must-do's"!