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Edelrid Micro Jul (Crazy new belay device)
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By marsh
Jul 20, 2012
From an old winter trip (2010??)

ATC (tube) style, autolocking, super lightweight and clean. Besides the possible uncomfortable wire this seems like THE new multi use belay device.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Jul 20, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Looks like kind of a PIA to belay a leader.

UKC/UKH at Outdoor 2012 - The Micro-Jul from Edelrid

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By bearbreeder
Jul 20, 2012

looks similar to a smart...


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Jul 20, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

Marc H wrote:
Looks like kind of a PIA to belay a leader.



Looks like the same way one would belay a leader with a Mammut Smart


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Jul 20, 2012
Mt. Agassiz

bearbreeder wrote:
looks similar to a smart...


Just what I was thinking...looks like a cheaper, poorly-designed device when compared with a Mammut Smart Alpine


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Jul 20, 2012

The Micro-Jul is designed for Edelrids new 6.9mm twin rope. For other ropes there is the Mega-Jul.
We shall see in practice how succesful this is!


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Jul 20, 2012
Bucky

Ryan Nevius wrote:
Just what I was thinking...looks like a cheaper, poorly-designed device when compared with a Mammut Smart Alpine


Except the fact that the Mammut rig looks quite a bit heavier (haven't checked that).


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2012

J. Albers wrote:
Except the fact that the Mammut rig looks quite a bit heavier (haven't checked that).


The Mammut Smart Alpine clocks in at 125g, the Micro Jul clocks in at 60g.

The regular Smart is 82g, and the Mega Jul (the Micro's big brother) clocks in at 65g.

For what its worth, the Micro Jul was built specifically for (and comes with) Edelrid's newest twin line, the Flycatcher 6.9mm line. It's the only device rated for a rope that skinny.


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By bearbreeder
Jul 20, 2012

one reason they are likely making it is that the (alpine) smart IMO seems fairly successful around here anyways ... quite a few people ive seen have it


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 20, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I have the original size (mega?) Jul and it truly sucks for feeding a single rope through. Light, yes but not very functional as an ATC type device. It sits in the bottom of my equipment bin somewhere for last year or more.


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By marsh
Jul 20, 2012
From an old winter trip (2010??)

How it looked to me was that when you pull the wire forward it lifts the device off the carabiner so it is almost in a no friction mode. That way you could pull slack through the top with your top hand, and the brake hand just hold the wire and loosely grips the rope.


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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 20, 2012
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

As others have said, it works the same way as the Smart. There is a carabiner channel the locks the rope on one end and lets it run freely on the other end. In order to pay out rope to the leader, the belayer has to pull the device away from the harness attaching biner so that the biner is in the non-locking part of the channel. This means that rope has to be fed primarily or perhaps exclusively with the non-braking hand.

There is nothing else currently on the market that works with 6.9mm ropes.

I've tried the Smart with half ropes (where you want to pay one out and take one in simultaneously) and really dislike it for that purpose. It also sucks as a rappel device.

I recently acquired an Alpine Up which, although as bulky and heavy as a Gri Gri, is far better suited to half-rope belaying. Perhaps I'll post about it after I've acquired more experience.


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By Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Jan 25, 2013
Me

Buddy (who works at mountain gear)got to demo this (and thier new 17 gram biner) and was very excited about it.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Jan 26, 2013
blah

this is ridiculous, 17 grams...fuck me thats gotta be small and fiddly


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By Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Jan 26, 2013

I am pretty sure he meant 19 grams.

www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/Carabiners/StraightGate/PRD~>>>


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 26, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

The Petzl Reverso 4 weighs in at 59g and is a wonderful design. Is there any belay device lighter?


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Jan 26, 2013

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
The Petzl Reverso 4 weighs in at 59g and is a wonderful design. Is there any belay device lighter?



Munter hitch = 0 grams

:-P


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Jan 26, 2013

DMM Bugette 27g


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By bearbreeder
Jan 27, 2013

one thing no one has mentioned is that it is made of steel, not aluminum ... so it might be more durable in the long run

and its listed at MEC for 30 smackaroos ...

if this thing works well, it will sell like hotcakes ...

the lowest price point of any assisted locking device (except the basic smart which is single slot) ..... and the lightest

and a single device that theoretically works on half/twins down to 7.8 and up to 10.5 singles ... unlike the smart where you need 2 devices

i may need to pick one up for a bit of testing ;)


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 27, 2013
El Chorro

Seems cool. I'll stick to the random tube style device I found at the base of Moore's Wall 5 years ago.


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By scottso
From St. George, Utah
Mar 25, 2013

I saw the rep from Germany using one down in Moab and watching him use it; it will replace the ATC. Very slick as it auto-locks and can be used with doubles. Doesn't compare to the Smart.


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Mar 27, 2013

scottso wrote:
Doesn't compare to the Smart.


I hope you mean in a good way!

If it's as smooth as an ATC, there is no reason not to replace an old device with this.


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By Brassmonkey
Mar 27, 2013
Brass monkey

My only question would be in a situation where someone is falling and you need to feed some slack while they are falling (coming under a roof, etc.) are you able to do that with these style devices? As much as I love my cinch, if I need to give a very safe belay which includes soft catches I dont use it because it just locks and then we are both along for the ride. Is this and the smart the same?


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Mar 27, 2013
Cleo's Needle

Brassmonkey wrote:
My only question would be in a situation where someone is falling and you need to feed some slack while they are falling (coming under a roof, etc.) are you able to do that with these style devices? As much as I love my cinch, if I need to give a very safe belay which includes soft catches I dont use it because it just locks and then we are both along for the ride. Is this and the smart the same?


Yeah, flip it over and use it like a regular ATC. Same with the Smart.


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