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Edelrid Micro Jul (Crazy new belay device)
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Jul 20, 2012
From an old winter trip (2010??)
ATC (tube) style, autolocking, super lightweight and clean. Besides the possible uncomfortable wire this seems like THE new multi use belay device.

marsh
Joined Mar 30, 2012
54 points
Jul 20, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Looks like kind of a PIA to belay a leader.

UKC/UKH at Outdoor 2012 - The Micro-Jul from Edelrid
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Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Jul 20, 2012
looks similar to a smart... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,158 points
Administrator
Jul 20, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
Marc H wrote:
Looks like kind of a PIA to belay a leader.



Looks like the same way one would belay a leader with a Mammut Smart
LeeAB
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,131 points
Jul 20, 2012
Mt. Agassiz
bearbreeder wrote:
looks similar to a smart...


Just what I was thinking...looks like a cheaper, poorly-designed device when compared with a Mammut Smart Alpine
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
782 points
Jul 20, 2012
The Micro-Jul is designed for Edelrids new 6.9mm twin rope. For other ropes there is the Mega-Jul.
We shall see in practice how succesful this is!
Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
195 points
Jul 20, 2012
Bucky
Ryan Nevius wrote:
Just what I was thinking...looks like a cheaper, poorly-designed device when compared with a Mammut Smart Alpine


Except the fact that the Mammut rig looks quite a bit heavier (haven't checked that).
J. Albers
From Colorado
Joined Jul 11, 2008
2,227 points
Jul 20, 2012
J. Albers wrote:
Except the fact that the Mammut rig looks quite a bit heavier (haven't checked that).


The Mammut Smart Alpine clocks in at 125g, the Micro Jul clocks in at 60g.

The regular Smart is 82g, and the Mega Jul (the Micro's big brother) clocks in at 65g.

For what its worth, the Micro Jul was built specifically for (and comes with) Edelrid's newest twin line, the Flycatcher 6.9mm line. It's the only device rated for a rope that skinny.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Jul 20, 2012
one reason they are likely making it is that the (alpine) smart IMO seems fairly successful around here anyways ... quite a few people ive seen have it bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,158 points
Jul 20, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
I have the original size (mega?) Jul and it truly sucks for feeding a single rope through. Light, yes but not very functional as an ATC type device. It sits in the bottom of my equipment bin somewhere for last year or more. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points
Jul 20, 2012
From an old winter trip (2010??)
How it looked to me was that when you pull the wire forward it lifts the device off the carabiner so it is almost in a no friction mode. That way you could pull slack through the top with your top hand, and the brake hand just hold the wire and loosely grips the rope. marsh
Joined Mar 30, 2012
54 points
Jul 20, 2012
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
As others have said, it works the same way as the Smart. There is a carabiner channel the locks the rope on one end and lets it run freely on the other end. In order to pay out rope to the leader, the belayer has to pull the device away from the harness attaching biner so that the biner is in the non-locking part of the channel. This means that rope has to be fed primarily or perhaps exclusively with the non-braking hand.

There is nothing else currently on the market that works with 6.9mm ropes.

I've tried the Smart with half ropes (where you want to pay one out and take one in simultaneously) and really dislike it for that purpose. It also sucks as a rappel device.

I recently acquired an Alpine Up which, although as bulky and heavy as a Gri Gri, is far better suited to half-rope belaying. Perhaps I'll post about it after I've acquired more experience.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
308 points
Jan 25, 2013
Me
Buddy (who works at mountain gear)got to demo this (and thier new 17 gram biner) and was very excited about it. Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Joined Sep 6, 2010
48 points
Jan 26, 2013
blah
this is ridiculous, 17 grams...fuck me thats gotta be small and fiddly Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
46 points
Jan 26, 2013
I am pretty sure he meant 19 grams.

mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/Ca...
Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
15 points
Jan 26, 2013
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
The Petzl Reverso 4 weighs in at 59g and is a wonderful design. Is there any belay device lighter? Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Jan 26, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
The Petzl Reverso 4 weighs in at 59g and is a wonderful design. Is there any belay device lighter?



Munter hitch = 0 grams

:-P
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
Jan 26, 2013
DMM Bugette 27g Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
195 points
Jan 27, 2013
one thing no one has mentioned is that it is made of steel, not aluminum ... so it might be more durable in the long run

and its listed at MEC for 30 smackaroos ...

if this thing works well, it will sell like hotcakes ...

the lowest price point of any assisted locking device (except the basic smart which is single slot) ..... and the lightest

and a single device that theoretically works on half/twins down to 7.8 and up to 10.5 singles ... unlike the smart where you need 2 devices

i may need to pick one up for a bit of testing ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,158 points
Administrator
Jan 27, 2013
El Chorro
Seems cool. I'll stick to the random tube style device I found at the base of Moore's Wall 5 years ago. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Mar 25, 2013
I saw the rep from Germany using one down in Moab and watching him use it; it will replace the ATC. Very slick as it auto-locks and can be used with doubles. Doesn't compare to the Smart. scottso
From St. George, Utah
Joined Dec 13, 2007
49 points
Mar 27, 2013
scottso wrote:
Doesn't compare to the Smart.


I hope you mean in a good way!

If it's as smooth as an ATC, there is no reason not to replace an old device with this.
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Mar 27, 2013
Brass monkey
My only question would be in a situation where someone is falling and you need to feed some slack while they are falling (coming under a roof, etc.) are you able to do that with these style devices? As much as I love my cinch, if I need to give a very safe belay which includes soft catches I dont use it because it just locks and then we are both along for the ride. Is this and the smart the same? Brassmonkey
Joined Jan 19, 2012
70 points
Mar 27, 2013
Middle
Brassmonkey wrote:
My only question would be in a situation where someone is falling and you need to feed some slack while they are falling (coming under a roof, etc.) are you able to do that with these style devices? As much as I love my cinch, if I need to give a very safe belay which includes soft catches I dont use it because it just locks and then we are both along for the ride. Is this and the smart the same?


Yeah, flip it over and use it like a regular ATC. Same with the Smart.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
140 points


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