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 ADVANCED
Lower Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agony and Ecstasy, The S 
Central Insecurity S 
Ecstasy of the People S 
Eldo of the People S 
Enema of the People S 
Enemy of the People T 
Men Are From Mars T,S 
Prism T 
Scraping By T 
Security Risk T 

Ecstasy of the People 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Season: cool temps
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 5, 2012

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Ecstasy of the People.

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  • Description 

    This beautiful arete hangs proudly over the trail to Upper Security Risk, yet few people bother to look at it, and even fewer try it. However, those willing to step off the beaten path will be rewarded with great rock, unique movement, and a formidable mental challenge.

    Start up a dirty corner to the left of the first bolt (stick clip recommended). Once level with the first bolt, traverse right into the first crux along sidepulls with high, awkward feet past three bolts to decent holds at the base of the arete. Using the seam on the right side of the arete and small features on the left, hug your way past a difficult arete crux to a semi-restful stance below the last crux. With smeary feet, squeeze between the arete and a disappointingly slopey feature to delicately gain the slab. The final 25 feet of the route is 5.8 and can be protected with finger-sized cams.

    In general, expect technical, off-balance climbing with slightly difficult clips. The route missed four star status, because it's a bit dirty and the rock isn't perfect at the first bolt. Despite its shortcomings, this is one of the best arete climbs in the canyon.

    Also, beware of a very large, loose block just below the anchors.

    Location 

    It is right of Prism.

    Protection 

    Bolts and a two bolt anchor. I recommend a stick clip for the first bolt and some finger-sized gear for the top.


    Comments on Ecstasy of the People Add Comment
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    By Taylor Roy
    From: Boulder, Co
    Nov 9, 2012

    Spent an hour scrubbing lichen and removing loose rock today. This thing is ready to go!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 12, 2015

    This is a very odd comment by Taylor Roy. I established the route on March 9, 1995. I redpointed it twice that month. I also cleaned a lot of lichen. It is hard to believe you could spend a hour more, but I guess it is possible. I also don't remember leaving a loose block below the anchor. I am curious now if the block is really loose or just a hollow flake. Perhaps it is too big to want to trundle. As for placing gear, it didn't seem necessary if you can climb this route.
    It is interesting that you don't bother to list the first ascent. I originally tried to establish this route via its direct start, Agony Of The People, but was unsuccessful. So I finally bolted the indirect start that the line takes. The route is quite sustained, but I thought the crux was around 4th & 5th bolts using the edge of the vertical seam on the right side of the aręte to lieback on while palming with my left hand & pasting my left foot flat on the left side. Pillar climbing technique used on buildings. A memorable route that I have not revisited in 20 years.
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