Ecstasy of the People  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Season:  cool temps Submitted By:  Taylor Roy on Nov 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ecstasy of the People.

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Security Risk MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This beautiful arete hangs proudly over the trail to Upper Security Risk, yet few people bother to look at it, and even fewer try it. However, those willing to step off the beaten path will be rewarded with great rock, unique movement, and a formidable mental challenge.

Start up a dirty corner to the left of the first bolt (stick clip recommended). Once level with the first bolt, traverse right into the first crux along sidepulls with high, awkward feet past three bolts to decent holds at the base of the arete. Using the seam on the right side of the arete and small features on the left, hug your way past a difficult arete crux to a semi-restful stance below the last crux. With smeary feet, squeeze between the arete and a disappointingly slopey feature to delicately gain the slab. The final 25 feet of the route is 5.8 and can be protected with finger-sized cams.

In general, expect technical, off-balance climbing with slightly difficult clips. The route missed four star status, because it's a bit dirty and the rock isn't perfect at the first bolt. Despite its shortcomings, this is one of the best arete climbs in the canyon.

Also, beware of a very large, loose block just below the anchors.

Location 

It is right of Prism.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. I recommend a stick clip for the first bolt and some finger-sized gear for the top.