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South Peak - West Face
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Ecstasy Junior 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Chris Scoredos, Don Jacobs, Roy Britton
Page Views: 4,010
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Oct 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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BETA PHOTO: start to Jr

Description 

This climb makes a nice way to bypass the Stairmaster and gain Luncheon Ledge - the ledge system where Triple S and most of the West Face routes are located.

P1: Traverse right on the ledge, then up a crack and ledge system to a spacious ledge with a few trees and rappel rings over The Burn (80ft).

P2: Climb the right facing corner system up and around a cave-like feature and V-slot to another spacious ledge with a tree. Belay here (80ft).


Location 

Begin about 30 feet to the left of The Burn. Climb a short vegetated ramp to a smallish ledge with a sizable tree (10ft). Begin the climb here to avoid ropedrag. Descend by walking through a slot and head north to Luncheon Ledge and Triple S. You could also rappel from the tree (80ft), then from the anchors over The Burn (100+ feet, 60M rope with stretch required!!). Do the walkoff, it's safer.


Protection 

Standard Seneca rack



Photos of Ecstasy Junior Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Welter leads the second pitch of Ecstasy Junior, Dave Ruel belays.
Andy Welter leads the second pitch of Ecstasy Juni...
Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
alt start to Jr
BETA PHOTO: alt start to Jr
Comments on Ecstasy Junior Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 27, 2008

Shouldn't this climb be moved to South End? There is an entry for it there too.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 4, 2008

Seems like there are some overlapping routes in this area and the south end area...Ecstasy, Sunshine...

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Nov 4, 2008

This route is located on the West Face, not the South End. South End routes start from Ecstasy and go to around Candy Corner - Ecstasy Junior starts uphill from The Burn and stays on the south facing face of the West Peak of Seneca the entire way. The entry in the South End section should be removed. FWIW this route is listed in the West Face section of the guidebook, too.

By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 6, 2009

A note about the rappel from the top of the first pitch - don't expect to make it to the ground on a 60 m. I tried this a few days ago. With stretch, I made it to the slabby, easy start and had to down climb about 8 feet of 5.2 or so. Not too big a deal, just don't be surprised. Fortunately, the area underneath is reasonably flat, so a little jump down is also an option. Definitely knot your rope ends, if you aren't in the habit (shame on you!).

--Chris

By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 18, 2009

Pitch 2 starts with a right-facing corner, not the left-facing corner indicated in the description.

By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 13, 2009

Perhaps your rope is a bit short? Two days ago my partner and I and the party who had been ahead of us all reached the ground from the top of the first pitch with one 60 meter rope.