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Unsorted Routes:

Economique 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TR: Gould / Lead: Matthew & Marisa Fienup (2005)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,340
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Climbing Econimique.

Description 

This route follows the arete and face around the corner to the left of Goulara. Sustained and interesting climbing with great exposure! One 5.10a move followed by mostly-5.8 climbing.

Clip the first three bolts of Goulara, turn the corner and follow bolts to the top.

The crux of the route is right off the ground and unprotected--bring a stick-clip.

Consider leading the first six bolts of Economique, extending the seventh with a long runner, and finishing on the anchors of Goulara--this is a great way to TR Economique's classic nextdoor neighbor.

Protection 

7 bolts to fixed anchor (the top anchor consists of a 1/2" rawl and a 3/8" wedge bolt equipped with mussy hooks).

Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.



Photos of Economique Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Econimique.
Climbing Econimique.
Climbing Econimique.
Climbing Econimique.
Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.
Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.
Economique, at Wheeler Gorge. (June 16, 2013)
Economique, at Wheeler Gorge. (June 16, 2013)
Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the sustained upper-headwall of Economique.
Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the sustained...
Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the exposed upper-headwall of Economique.
Rachel Maine, of Santa Paula, climbs the exposed u...
Economique, at Wheeler Gorge. (June 16, 2013)
Economique, at Wheeler Gorge. (June 16, 2013)
Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.
Rob Chaney climbs Economique, at Wheeler Gorge.

Comments on Economique Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 16, 2014
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

An abandoned Mike Gould project called "Unnamed Arete", originally rated 5.9.
By ryan mattock
Apr 29, 2010

best damn 10a in Ventura! bring a yellow alien as your first piece. the only Granite in Ventura!
By Joe Stern
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks for properly equipping the arete, Matthew! Classic climbing and much more conveniently bolted than the 5.10c version of Goulara.

A #2 camalot (or other) adequately protects the start. Alternatively, a stick clip was stashed at the base as of 8-14-11 (or BYOSC). Although there are a few granitic cobbles en route, this climb of course ascends a section of conglomerate.

+1 for best 10a in Ventura, although it felt more like 10b to me (despite the original rating of 5.9).

By Michelle Lynn
From: Moab, UT
Mar 12, 2012

There's a new low bolt on this route at exactly the same height as the pod for the #2 BD cam. My tall partner was able to clip the new bolt from a big ledge eliminating the run out factor. As someone who's taken the fall onto the #2 (and doesn't like carrying around a stick clip), I appreciate the new bolt
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 29, 2012

The new bolt is in bad taste. Climbers who were sketched out by the runout to the first bolt had at least two options for making this safe.
By miwuksurfer
From: Santa Barbara
May 10, 2012

Thankfully, bolt has been chopped. Bring a red camalot or offset alien. It isn't runout at all.
By Justin Kenderes
From: Glendale, CA
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Awesome, long route!!! My favorite at Wheeler!

First bolt is ridiculously high though. I've never placed gear but fortunately a friend who was with us had some so I placed a #1 C4 and three stoppers before the first bolt (too many I know) in the hope that if I fell at least one peace would hold. I would suggest that this route be re-categorized as trad (or at least be given an R rating since a fall at the first bolt would likely result in serious injury) if it can't be adequately protected with a sport rack. I recognize I'm a sport climber with limited experience but if I had only a sport rack with me, I would not consider this route to be climbable. That said, it's a great route which I highly recommend, just bring a #1 and some nuts.
By Joe Wysznski
Nov 15, 2012

The beginning of this route can easily be protected with a #1 BD cam. It's not rated R at all.
By Justin Kenderes
From: Glendale, CA
Dec 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Right, maybe I wasn't being clear. My point was that if you're placing cams then it's not really a sport climb and if sport climbers show up with just a sport rack then the route is probably too dangerous for a 5.10a leader. This is unfortunate because they would be missing out on a great climb! For me, a #1 C4 and a couple nuts provided great protection.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 5, 2013

I placed a bomber #2 camalot in the "pod". Love this route.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Oct 5, 2013

The bolt is back.......
*Oct.10; much respect to Joe W today for his lead of this one. Plugged a cam, ignored the bolt, and cruised the crux*
By Corey C.
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

bolt was not there as of today
By Alexander Schottky 1
From: Oxnard, California
Sep 14, 2014

Great 5.10a in beautiful rock! I had a hard time being out of shape but still made it happen - a fun climb with lots of great runouts! You will love it
That first bolt is there as far as I can tell and it protects the beginning really well
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 16, 2014

The bolt is back.

I have long regarded this area as one of the true gems of the Central Coast, so I greatly appreciate the recent focus and attention that Wheeler Gorge is getting from route developers. Alex B.'s development of the second tier, above Danger Boy, is absolutely thrilling.

But it bugs the hell out of me that someone (I know its not you, Alex) is altering existing routes. On what planet is this acceptable? There are gray areas in the bolting realm, but is adding a bolt to someone else's route really in this gray area? Goulara is not some old-school route, where we can debate whether or not the aging bolt that protects the runout crux should be replaced. The route is perfectly safe, as others have indicated.

Please leave existing routes alone.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 16, 2014

Okay, I'm tired of the bolt crap. Since the people who keep putting the bolt back in are doing it secretly and have never had the insight to tell the climbing community who they are and why they think they have the right to alter someone else's route, it has led to this. I'm from here on out putting MYSELF, Chuck Ethics as the guy who WILL remove that bolt EVERY TIME it goes back in. If you want your hangers back, shoot me an email but it will be removed again and again. If one person starts altering routes because it makes them feel safer, it's just one big slippery slope to the whole climbing scene getting grid bolted in the name of safety. I've never been a mean guy but this climbing stuff means more to me than anything.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 16, 2014

I'm going to leave that first comment up because I'm serious about it... however, I don't WANT to have to adopt this alter ego of Chuck Ethics, I don't WANT to have to be the loud guy, but Hey people, where are you're comments? How does everyone feel about this issue that's popping up in our backyards? We're a community, I'm not the guy who should have to enforce anything, we should all chime in and say what we feel. Remember, issues of altering others routes don't just stop at this one route, it can extend all the way across California or the whole country. We as the community are the only ones who can set standards and hold people accountable for doing what they aren't supposed too. Please let your voices be heard, but I'm still removing the bolt.