Economique 

An abandoned Mike Gould project called "Unnamed Arete", originally rated 5.9.

best damn 10a in Ventura! bring a yellow alien as your first piece. the only Granite in Ventura!

Thanks for properly equipping the arete, Matthew! Classic climbing and much more conveniently bolted than the 5.10c version of Goulara.

A #2 camalot (or other) adequately protects the start. Alternatively, a stick clip was stashed at the base as of 8-14-11 (or BYOSC). Although there are a few granitic cobbles en route, this climb of course ascends a section of conglomerate.

+1 for best 10a in Ventura, although it felt more like 10b to me (despite the original rating of 5.9).

There's a new low bolt on this route at exactly the same height as the pod for the #2 BD cam. My tall partner was able to clip the new bolt from a big ledge eliminating the run out factor. As someone who's taken the fall onto the #2 (and doesn't like carrying around a stick clip), I appreciate the new bolt

The new bolt is in bad taste. Climbers who were sketched out by the runout to the first bolt had at least two options for making this safe.

Thankfully, bolt has been chopped. Bring a red camalot or offset alien. It isn't runout at all.

Awesome, long route!!! My favorite at Wheeler!

First bolt is ridiculously high though. I've never placed gear but fortunately a friend who was with us had some so I placed a #1 C4 and three stoppers before the first bolt (too many I know) in the hope that if I fell at least one peace would hold. I would suggest that this route be re-categorized as trad (or at least be given an R rating since a fall at the first bolt would likely result in serious injury) if it can't be adequately protected with a sport rack. I recognize I'm a sport climber with limited experience but if I had only a sport rack with me, I would not consider this route to be climbable. That said, it's a great route which I highly recommend, just bring a #1 and some nuts.

The beginning of this route can easily be protected with a #1 BD cam. It's not rated R at all.

Right, maybe I wasn't being clear. My point was that if you're placing cams then it's not really a sport climb and if sport climbers show up with just a sport rack then the route is probably too dangerous for a 5.10a leader. This is unfortunate because they would be missing out on a great climb! For me, a #1 C4 and a couple nuts provided great protection.

I placed a #2 camalot in the "pod", felt bomber. Love this route.