Eclipse 5.12+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | Todd McG, JBaker, April 2002 |
| Season: | Winter/spring |
| Submitted By: | jbak on Dec 17, 2007 |
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Reasonably steep, eh? Todd fights for the FA.
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Description Steepest route at Milagrosa is a miniature jewel. It's only 30 feet but those 30 feet match up with just about any around. It starts at 5.11 and gets steadily harder until it tickles the underbelly of 5.13. It's about 80 degrees beyond vertical.
Location Obvious roof, left side of Beach ledge.
Protection 6 bolts and chains + a dog bolt.
JB on Eclipse back when the route was put up.
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Silhouette shot of Eclipse
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The bucket-y start of Eclipse... too bad it doesn'...
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By jbak
Apr 13, 2008
| Got on this thing again today...what a kick-ass route ! |
By iancevans
Apr 25, 2010
| Clip the chain draw, then skip the next two bolts on redpoint and go for a RIDE when you blow the final easy move to chains!
Very fun, but those jugs are sharp. |
By jbak
Apr 25, 2010
| Ian, just make sure the nut on the chain-draw is tight if you skip the last clip. Can't remember if I locktited it or not. 2nd-to-last is just a dog bolt like the one on Chaingang. |
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 19, 2011
| Great route! Super fun and that last section is HARD. Timing it so that a cloud blows over as you exit the roof is the way to go or else everything over the lip is really greasy.
One thing, watch out for wasps on the last few big holds in the roof. On the redpoint I grabbed the hold right next to the big blocky jug, moved onto the jug and then watched a wasp crawl out of where my fingers had just been. |
By jbak
Dec 19, 2011
| Alex... glad you liked it. Had a hard time figuring out what "a could blows over" meant. Then I got it. |
By soren tucker
From: tucson, az
Nov 25, 2012
| wasp's nests are successfully destroyed (11/25/12) |
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