Echoes 5.12d
| 930 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 580 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c/d [details] |
| FA: | Rob Pizem |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | any |
| Submitted By: | rob pizem on Apr 8, 2011 |
| |
Here is the topo for Echoes!
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This is a climb protected by mixed bolts and gear and goes up the Sunday Wall.
Begin in the easy gully to the right of the first few routes you approach when hiking in from the main parking lot (this pitch is short and can be done without a rope 5.4). Two bolt anchors with purple rope marks the belays on the route.
Pitch 1 - 5.4.
Pitch 2 - 5.10+.
Pitch 3 - 5.12+/13- not sure where it falls in the grade.
Pitch 4 - 5.8.
Pitch 5 - 5.12+/13- again not sure where it falls in the grade.
Pitch 6 - 5.11+.
Pitch 2 - protects with gear and bolts. Trend left from the anchor up the ramp system and over a few bulges to the anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 3 - protects with bolts and gear(all). This is a techy dihedral stemming to crack jamming to a boulder problem/pumpy finish.
Pitch 4 - protects with gear only. Ascend a dihedral up and right from anchor. At top, trend left on ledges and loose rocks to anchor at base of the cleanest looking face with black streak on top.
Pitch 5 - protects with bolts and gear (blue Metolius to #1 cam/one each). This is a face and crack pitch (hidden clipping hold in dihedral for the second bolt in the dihedral to powerful moves up high on the pitch.
Pitch 6 - uses bolts only. Do mantels and techy face climbing with long reach move at a bolt to a ledge.
Hope you like it!
Location The most obvious feature is that right-arching crack on the left side of the wall. That is pitch 3. The route is 25 feet to the right of Three's Company and before Bridge of Air.
The route has been cleaned to the the point where everything that you need is clean and the rest might exfoliate, so remember that when you are stomping away and knocking thin layers of rock off on your partner. It has been cleaned and will get better with future ascents.
Protection Echoes' rack:
I used this gear for all my ascents of the route.
(I am sure that some climbers will use more and some less)
14 draws
2 70m ropes (only to the bottom of pitch 5, you can rap the top two pitches with your 70m rope and then double rope to the top of pitch 1 with your 2 70s from the base of pitch 5)
1 blue metolius
1 0.4 cam
1 0.5 cam
2 0.75 cam
1 1.0 cam
1 3.0 cam.
Rob just after the wild traverse.
| | |
By chris righter
Apr 13, 2011
rating: 5.12+
| One of the best multipitch routes of the grade on the Western Slope! No joke. The two 5.12 pitches are spectacular with impeccable featured stone that is slightly overhanging. The first 5.12 pitch is one of the most wild travesing pitches I have ever done. A must do. I didn't use the #3 Camalot, but did use a yellow Metolius, and green and yellow c3 cams in addition to listed rack. Few routes in Unaweep warrant 4 stars, but this one does. |
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.12+
| Great route, well worth the trip which should include the neighboring route the Steeple. This should definitely put Unaweep back on the map for interested parties. All pitches are good, and the two crux pitches are REALLY good, not to mention the sweet ledge belays. If you like techy granite, you'll love Echoes. Thanks, Rob. |
By rob pizem
Mar 12, 2013
| Beagle, glad you liked the route. It's not straightforward climbing, and that is what makes it nice! Let's get out and climb sometime. |
|
6 more...
RSS Feed
Slideshow