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Oct 8, 2011
Walking through Echo Cove looking for a good climb...
I was thinking about going to Echo Cliffs next weekend and was curious how the moderate(5.8-10a) routes are. Has anyone been there recently and if so how was it? Any route suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tyler Smith
From Buena Park
Joined Feb 22, 2011
16 points
Oct 8, 2011
The guillotine(check spelling?) is 10b but not bad at all. It's the only route I've done at echo that has made me get that awesome post-climb satisfaction. Or head over to hueco wall if you want a forearm burn after all the 10s there! J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Oct 8, 2011
old 1/4" bolt.
Tyler....Echo Cliffs is an awesome area for moderate sport climbing. Try these:
Intellitoys (5.9) voted one of the best routes of 2010 by R&I
Casey at The Bat (5.10b)
Irish Car Bomb (5.10c)
B-Line (510a) ..careful of the sting at the end.
Golden Years (5.9)
Tea Bag (5.10c)
Bushwhacked (5.9)
Head wound (5.9)
The Serpent (5.10a)
Spiderman (5.10a)
Lowrider (5.10b)
Wonder woman (5.10c)
Oolong (510a)
Welcome to Echo (5.10a)

The weather is awesome and if you don't object to the 30 min hike, you'll have a great time. Remember the rock at Echo Cliffs isn't granite, so it can be chossy.
Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
11,896 points
Oct 8, 2011
Walking through Echo Cove looking for a good climb...
Benjamin, thanks for all the info. Do you know of any camping close to Echo Cliffs? Tyler Smith
From Buena Park
Joined Feb 22, 2011
16 points
Oct 8, 2011
old 1/4" bolt.
Tyler......you might try the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area website regarding camping. There may be camping at Circle X Ranch? There are campsites along PCH (Pacific Coast Hwy) at Leo Carillo State Park near Malibu, but it isn't that close, maybe 8 -10 miles away via Decker Cyn Road. Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
11,896 points
Oct 8, 2011
guillotine is a fun, trad-like climb (if that makes any sense) and i'll give a big +1 for intellitoys, super sustained at the grade, super fun. if you have Louie Anderson's sport climbing in the santa monica's then you will be set. Echo is definitely worth the trip; an additional bonus is that it is quite easy to tell when you are off route as the holds will crumble like chalk in your hands. best, xan Xan Calonne
From Pasadena, Ca
Joined Mar 25, 2010
19 points
Oct 10, 2011
My kinda simian
If you're going to make the hike in to Echo I'd recommend taking an emergency kit. Put in at least three (3) subway sandwiches (12") and waterproof matches. Do NOT toss out the wrappers. Have fun. Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Oct 10, 2011
Ryan Kelly wrote:
If you're going to make the hike in to Echo I'd recommend taking an emergency kit. Put in at least three (3) subway sandwiches (12") and waterproof matches. Do NOT toss out the wrappers. Have fun.

+1
J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points


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