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Echo Cliffs

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Alcove, The 
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Echo Cliffs 


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Location: 34.1116, -118.9264 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 221,355
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dr. Evil on May 21, 2006
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Nearing the end of another fine day of climbing at...
Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good sport crag in a beautiful location. The crag includes over 100 bolted routes on volcanic tuff.

Guidebooks: Louie Anderson, "Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas," 2003.

Steve Edwards, "Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura," 2000.


Getting There 

From Highway 101 take the Westlake Boulevard exit and head south on Westlake (California 23). After roughly 7 miles turn right (west) on Mulholland Highway. After half a mile turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon Road, which becomes Yerba Buena Road. After 4 miles park in dirt pullouts on either side of the road. The trail starts from parking lot on the right (west) side of road.

The hike in takes about 45 minutes. Take the Mishe Mokwa trail for about 30 minutes. The trail intersects dry stream bed on right; several logs are piled on the stream bed here to indicate that it is not the regular hiking train. Follow the stream bed down to the climbs.


181 Total Routes


['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',58],['2 Stars',70],['1 Star',30],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',11],['5.9',14],['5.10',53],['5.11',33],['5.12',43],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Echo Cliffs:
Mystic River   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Grotto
Intellitoys   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Test Site
Black Tide   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Left Flank
Superfly   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   The Grotto
Fen Gliddich   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Tea Room
Blackjack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Easy Street
Casey at the Bat   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Easy Street
The Guillotine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Alcove
Tea Bag   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Tea Room
Death by Chocolate   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Chocolate Wall
Caffeine   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Java Wall
Espresso   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Java Wall
Split Decision   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Pink Wall
Java   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Java Wall
The Stain   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   White Wall
Pretty in Pink   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Pink Wall
Crash and Burn   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Kamikaze Cave
Pride   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Alcove
No Remorse   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Kamikaze Cave
State of Grace   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   White Wall
Browse More Classics in Echo Cliffs

Featured Route For Echo Cliffs
The Stain

The Stain 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : White Wall
The Stain climbs the left most of the two black water streaks. Start up the steep and powerful bottom bulge to brilliant 5.11 climbing above....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Echo Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Pink Wall, Echo Cliffs
Pink Wall, Echo Cliffs
A really busy day at the parking area for Echo Cliffs and the Mishe Mokwa Trail.
A really busy day at the parking area for Echo Cli...
Echo Cliffs, as seen from the Mishe Mokwa trail. The approach trail reaches the Grotto first. The other walls are approached by hiking right (south) along the base of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Echo Cliffs, as seen from the Mishe Mokwa trail. T...
Left end of Echo Cliffs, with some climbs on the Left Flank marked.
BETA PHOTO: Left end of Echo Cliffs, with some climbs on the L...
Local climbers collaborate with NPS rangers to clean up Echo Cliffs.
Local climbers collaborate with NPS rangers to cle...
A view of Echo Cliffs (with Balanced Rock looming overhead), as seen from the descent gully.
A view of Echo Cliffs (with Balanced Rock looming ...
Where are some serious groves of poison oak surrounding the approach to Echo Cliffs. Be careful out there!!
Where are some serious groves of poison oak surrou...
Looking down Annihilator, 5.11d.  The chalked holds (left) are on Immaculate, 5.12a.  Both are just past the Kamikaze Cave on the next section of wall called Dream Street.  The sharpness of the holds on upper Annihilator made me think Immaculate looked a lot nicer.
Looking down Annihilator, 5.11d. The chalked hold...
It is a long way from The Grotto over to the Kamikaze Cave.  You're getting close when you reach the four rung downclimb.
It is a long way from The Grotto over to the Kamik...
A busy afternoon on the upper tier.  Climber is Cory on Welcome to Echo.
A busy afternoon on the upper tier. Climber is Co...
After the ladder, go through a narrow tunnel to enter the Kamikaze Cave.  Once through the tunnel, I felt we had entered the real climbing of Echo.
After the ladder, go through a narrow tunnel to en...
Echo Cliffs from the Mishe Mokwa approach trail.
BETA PHOTO: Echo Cliffs from the Mishe Mokwa approach trail.
The hanging draw garden of the Kamikaze Cave.
The hanging draw garden of the Kamikaze Cave.
On the road to Echo Cliffs. Turn right and up the hill at this sign.
On the road to Echo Cliffs. Turn right and up the ...
Climbers at Echo Cliffs
Climbers at Echo Cliffs
What wall is the one at the left?
BETA PHOTO: What wall is the one at the left?
The streambed of Carlyle Canyon, in the Grotto, at Echo Cliffs in full flow after a week of wet weather.
The streambed of Carlyle Canyon, in the Grotto, at...
The Echo Cliffs
BETA PHOTO: The Echo Cliffs
Echo Cliffs, with climbers visible on Easy Street
Echo Cliffs, with climbers visible on Easy Street
After the ladder, the trail leading up to the tunnel.
BETA PHOTO: After the ladder, the trail leading up to the tunn...
The approach slabs to the Grotto in the rainy season.
The approach slabs to the Grotto in the rainy seas...
Balanced Rock.  Just one more earthquake...
Balanced Rock. Just one more earthquake...
 VCSAR Copter at Echo - Be careful out there.
VCSAR Copter at Echo - Be careful out there.
Looking down the valley to the northeast? from the trail.  Beautiful country.
Looking down the valley to the northeast? from the...
Litter recently gathered from the base of Echo Cliffs. Please help keep our crag clean.
Litter recently gathered from the base of Echo Cli...
Views from the Wasteland
Views from the Wasteland
Dudleya pulverulenta, or chalk lettuce, photographed in The Grotto area.
Dudleya pulverulenta, or chalk lettuce, photograph...
Looking down the ladder - now that's an approach!
Looking down the ladder - now that's an approach!
Ventura County Search & Rescue buzzing the "White Wall."
Ventura County Search & Rescue buzzing the "White ...
From the main trail, head down the steep gully.  Will be wet after the rains.
BETA PHOTO: From the main trail, head down the steep gully. W...
The often maligned sign at the junction of the Sandstone Peak connector trail and the Mishe Mokwa/Backbone Trail.
The often maligned sign at the junction of the San...
Humboldt Lily, photographed along the trail to Echo Cliffs (listed rare or endangered by CNPS)
Humboldt Lily, photographed along the trail to Ech...
What wall is this? It appears to have 3 routes on it and it is before the rebar ladder
BETA PHOTO: What wall is this? It appears to have 3 routes on ...
Looking down the re-bar ladder, en route to Easy Street.
Looking down the re-bar ladder, en route to Easy S...
New NPS signs near the Grotto as a result of a rash of parties camping and building fires at Echo Cliffs.
New NPS signs near the Grotto as a result of a ras...
kamakazie cave 12d
kamakazie cave 12d
Sunrise on the Mishe Mokwa trail.  Hiking in early to beat the heat.
Sunrise on the Mishe Mokwa trail. Hiking in early...
Comments on Echo Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 3, 2014
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 15, 2006

The trailhead is about a 30-minute drive from Westlake Village. Click on the "Aerial Photo" link above for directions.

Trail Map

By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Sep 26, 2007

You can also reach the trailhead by driving west/north on the PCH from Santa Monica and turning right on Yerba Buena road (at Neptune's Net restaurant) and following that up to the trailhead.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 4, 2007

I don't think the description gives fair mention of the amount of choss you'll find here. There's some fun climbing for sure, but there's enough bad rock to warrant mentioning while describing the place. Just something to keep in mind; you'll have more fun if you know what you're in for. Take your helmet, not so much for the actually climbing, but while hanging out at the base.

By Rob Chaney
Mar 1, 2009

The beta photo on this page of easy street and the far side dose not match the guide book Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas. I climbed these climbs on 2/28/2009 and the guide book seems to be accurate. Climb #4 is not Golden Years, it is the Sperpent 10A and #5 is not Dirty Deeds it is Watermark 5.9.Golden Years and Dirty deeds are the next set of bolts to the left.

By ryan mattock
Mar 2, 2009

nice place to go climbing for the afternoon. some anchor replacement has been happening (it's not me), but I 'm glad.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 3, 2009

Thanks for noting the problem with the beta photo, Rob. I made the same note on another part of the site back in September (see here). It would be REALLY nice to get this cleaned up.

By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Aug 18, 2009

go and climb those routes in question and have fun- then mark it in your guidebook...no more confusion! easy!
:)

By Adam Banzon
Sep 18, 2009

I've had friends new to Echo try to meet me at the wall and I made them this map to help them find me. If it helps you, great. If not, take it down so others don't get F'd. I think it's pretty accurate, but that's for the public to decide:

maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&ll=34.125221>>>

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 29, 2009

Echo Cliffs is a wonderful area and the recent sunny warm days this Fall have made for awesome climbing. Saturday was beautiful and there was hardly anyone at Echo Cliffs. Unfortunately, there seems to be a trend developing down at the Far Side with parties responding to the call-of-nature and NOT venturing off the trail and/or packing their trash out. An awful mess has been created on the approach to Black Face/Energy Wall with groups feeling this is the restroom. Please remind climbers that you see that others don't care to see their toilet paper and feces and that going down hill, AWAY from the base of the cliff would be more appreciate.

By Rory Moulton
Apr 22, 2010

Great long moderates, including some multi-pitch 8s/9s in the Easy Street section. Extremely well-protected, though rock can be super-sketch in places. Helmet is a MUST for belayers, base-area lingerers.
This is one of the better places to learn lead & multi-pitch climbing on fixed bolts. And it's probably the least crowded crag in LA County. Gorgeous area with a beautiful, shady grotto.
I'm saddened to hear about the trash and feces problem. This area was just starting to gain populairty when I lived there (03-05) and trash hadn't yet become a problem.
C'mon people respect one of LA County's only "backcountry" crags!

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 1, 2010

The Park Service has ignored climbers at Echo Cliffs for some time, and expected climbers to police themselves. Unfortunately, activites such as allowing dogs to wander off leash at the base of the cliff, leaving trash/litter, leaving tissue paper/feces, camping, fire pits, and loud music have become a problem and the rangers are monitoring climber activities more closely, and we are on the radar. Again, please monitor your behavior as this wonderful area has been closed before. Routes on the south side of the Grotto have been removed, posted, and closed to protect endangered plants species as well.

By Adamclimbs
Jan 1, 2011

The guidebook for this area is doing climbers a disservice by liberally using a 5 star rating system. A place like J-Tree or Yosemite is deserving of such a system. Stars are given out to many routes in massive quantities where they may not be warranted, especially routes put up by the guidebook author.

By ttriche
From: Altadena, CA
Jan 1, 2011

It's a sport area, the guy who spent a shitload of time and energy developing it is going to be biased. The glue alone probably cost a small fortune. If it bugs you, don't use the guidebook. Or look at the mountainproject ratings. They tend to be a lot more objective. If you could get Williamson reopened, then the problem might work itself out... But unfortunately most of the other sport areas near LA are choss piles, and the ratings in Louie's book are implicitly based on comparisons with other bolted choss.

It's better than nothing; you can either ignore the star ratings in his book or write a better one (in print or on the web). Bottom line is that the guidebook is out there, it represents the viewpoint of a guy who spent a lot of time developing the area, and he just isn't real likely to change it just because the area is (objectively) a choss pile.

With the right frame of mind, training at Echo can still be a good time. You just can't show up expecting Astroman to rise out of the hills.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 6, 2011

Adam's map is perfectly right on, at least according to the gps on my phone in google maps. Thanks! The climbers trail was marked with many chalk splotches, so you can't miss it. Is this the best way in? The Edwards guide says something about a trail that was frowned upon by rangers, I am assuming this is the climber-specific trail made to ensure plant safety.

This is a beautiful area, this weekend was my first time here, and it was BUSY! I'm not sure if that is normal. If you want to climb below 5.10, you might expect a line. The newer walls (far side and further) seem to still be cleaning up, so helmets for everyone at the base is a good idea, unless there are no other parties. However, if it's not so busy, the moderates here are stellar. It can be quite noisy, and I hope the local residents don't hear it all day everyday.

This is just from a small sampling though. I hope to get back soon to do more. If the rock was cleaner... this area would be STELLAR! But don't let that deter you. The trails along the crag bases were especially nicely maintained.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 11, 2012

Adamclimbs..... this isn't Joshua Tree or Yosemite, so using such areas (granite) as the datum for assigning quality ratings to Echo Cliffs (rhyolite) is ridiculous. As Chris Owen (administrator) has indicated elsewhere, the assigning of quality stars should be adjusted to reflect a spectrum of the best to worst climbs in an area, not to compare climbs from such drastically different areas as Yosemite and Echo Cliffs. As for the guidebook author, Louie Anderson put in a hell of a lot of time, $$, and hard work establishing and climbing the lions share of the routes at Echo Cliffs, so he undoubtedly has much more time in the maai (correct spelling, look it up) then you and has been reasonably objective in assigning quality stars in a venue John Long has referred to as "vertical mud." A quality star rating is just a tool or point of reference, not the word of God.

By ChrisOlsefsky
Jul 8, 2012

FOUND rope on june 30th at echo cliffs. Please call Chris (818)317-2329 with a description if you believe it is yours.

By Maidy
Nov 18, 2013

Just a note since I've noticed a drastic increase in destructive behavior at Echo cliffs just in the last year... mostly, I believe out of ignorance. Evidently a lot of people are simply unaware of the park's rules so here they are for the record:

Echo cliffs is a federally protected wilderness under the National Park Service. Access can be closed if we as climbers do not respect some simple rules. Simply put.. leave no trace. Pack out your trash and don't destroy stuff. Leave the plants and animals alone. Your dog is required to be on a leash at all times.

Camping is illegal. Fires are not only illegal, but suicidal given the lack of an escape route and the dry conditions. There have been multiple incidents now of camping and fire-pits as well as people (both climbers and non-climbers) clearing bushes and chopping down trees to make room for encampments. This could definitely cause a permanent closure if it continues.

Tampering with plants/wildlife and cutting new access trails upsets the land managers. It has been an issue in the past. Fortunately, with areas like The Grotto and The Lookout, the park was willing to work out a compromise of partial closure. There are established access trails to every wall, so creating new ones is totally unnecessary. If you find yourself sliding down an severely eroding hillside, thrashing though bushes or ripping plants off a route, you are in the wrong place. Stick to walking on rock whenever possible. If you need to mark the trail, use cairns (not paint like some idiot did recently).

For route developers...power drills are prohibited as is vertical gardening. All cliff-line beyond The Tea Room is private property closed to development. Fixed draws are technically illegal as well.

Let's keep Echo safe, beautiful and open for everyone to enjoy in the future. We don't need another one of our prime sport-climbing areas shut down. It's not hard to follow the rules and still have a great day out there. Happy climbing everyone.

By J Kazu
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 2, 2014

Saw three cars with broken windows in the parking lot on the way out today. What a bummer, bring or keep anything of value out of sight! This goes for Stoney, Malibu, Riverside, any urban crag.

By boosti
Feb 3, 2014

Just a heads up when parking at the Mishe Mokwa Trail parking lot or any of the other lots in the area, 4 cars broken into at the Mishe Mokwa Trail parking lot on Superbowl sunday (feb. 2nd 2014) , one of which was mine. Nothing was stolen though we did have some empty bags in the back, under one was a camera bag which they did not see (fuckin amateurs, man). Not the smartest move on our end but regardless, According to the NPS ranger its been happening a lot in the area. I spoke to another climber who said his window was busted out on mulhoulland hwy two weeks prior.

An unfortunate reality for a great spot in LA. Ive already created laminated signs for my windows offering a $50 dollar reward to any would be thieves for NOT breaking my rear windshield. Also, on the market for some booby trap riggers. Any leads would be much appreciated.

Aside from the aforementioned above and some pretty jaded hippies, this place ROCKS. PUN INTENDED!!!!!!!