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Echo Cliff anchor retrofit and clean up
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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Mar 25, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

I was just out here on Sunday and saw that some routes need some maintenance. As always, I'm sure it could use a clean up as well. Any others interested in this up taking? I'm willing to pitch in greenbacks for hardware and put in some sweat. No proposed dates yet, but before May rolls around. Any takers and contact info for the regulars out there would be awesome. I'll be working to get my local gym and climbing shop involved soon as well.
Cheers and beers.
Will


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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Mar 25, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

Of note were some of the anchors by the Grotto (on the routes not closed) and the anchors on the Java wall. They were pretty heinous. I'll have to take pics next time I'm down there.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 26, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

William.
Thank you for thinking about it.

The anchors at ECHO have always been pretty dicey.... don't screw with them if you don't know what your doing, please.

Yes some are spinners, some are sticking way out and some are into the same same chunk of choss, but none have failed.

I don't know if you could make em look like the BOMBER anchors one is use to in granite.

Louie and Jack really understand choss and they put in some really long bolts.


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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Mar 26, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

I'm worried about the ones that have been abused from jackasses TR'ing off of them. Anyway, can you put me in touch with the people doing the anchor/bolt maintenance? I'd just like to, financially and through grunt work, contribute to:

A. Helping replace the dangerously worn anchors. Caffeine and Espresso immediately come to mind.
B. Getting a clean up day down there before it starts getting really hot. Contact information for the land manager would be great for coordinating their support. We had NFS support at the Lizard's Mouth cleanup a few months ago.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 26, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Look just go pick up trash, the Land Managers don't wish to be bothered by climbers anymore from what I can gather. After the little mess that wen't down in the Grotto we are luckey to be able to climb there at all.

Many folks do maintence all the time, building renforced trails, regluing holds etc.

If you feel that the anchors are substandard go fix them. But please don't start unless you know about 6 inch long bolts, glue and how it works.

If you wish to fix, how about add a 3rd or forth anchor made out of chain coming down from someplace else where the stone is solid/different.

I know the bolts look sketch to you, and to me also... but in reality none has ever poped out or failed.

Lets keep it that a way.


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By anthony s
Mar 31, 2013

I am part of ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative)and am interested in helping out. I have never climbed at Echo Cliffs, but am willing to lend a hand. Let me know how/when I can help. Will do some research on the cliff, but would like some suggestions as which routes, anchors, chains that may be needed.


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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Apr 1, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

Well let's cruise out there this weekend, take a look first hand and climb some shizzz. I'll PM ya later.


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By Maidy
Apr 5, 2013

Several of the anchors on the Java Wall are dangerously worn from people TRing and lowering off them. They need to be replaced or, (like suggested) add a third bold with an appropriate length chain to back them up.

Clean up?.. well. I'm going to start a separate thread about the shenanigans that went down there on Easter weekend.


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By protohyp designs
Jun 5, 2013
One of the fun moves on Crucified <br /> <br />Photo by Eddy Cervantes

I spoke to Louie a few years back about the anchors. He said he hasn't been to echo in a while...probably since the 90's...He did say if we were willing to change them out he would get deals on the anchors and pass them along.


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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Jun 5, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.

William....there was an Adopt-a-Crag event scheduled for May 11th, but it was cancelled due to the Springs fire. As Anthony s indicated, just let us know which routes and/or anchors are suspect and we can work the upgrade into the days agenda when we reschedule the Adopt-a-Crag day with the NPS, this fall.


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By dourbalistar
Jun 5, 2013

Not sure if there has been any anchor replacement or route maintenance since this effort:
www.mountainproject.com/v/southern-california-re-bolting-pro>>>

If not, the open shut anchors at the top of Bushwhacked on Left Flank are pretty worn through. www.mountainproject.com/v/southern-california-re-bolting-project/


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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Jun 5, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.

dourbalistar.....thanks for the link, but it leads to the MP destination page, not to Echo Cliffs anchor replacement information.


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By Mtnfly
From El Segundo, Ca
Jun 6, 2013

I'd love to help. I'm surei could get many people to help also. Keep me in the loop please.


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By dourbalistar
Jun 6, 2013

Benjamin Chapman wrote:
dourbalistar.....thanks for the link, but it leads to the MP destination page, not to Echo Cliffs anchor replacement information.


I think I was able to fix the link. Let me know if it still takes you to the MP Destination page.


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