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Echo Canyon could technically be considered part of the Main Dome climbing experience. It's included here as a separate area because of the abundance of individual areas, number of climbs, and an atmosphere that is different from other areas in the park. The vast majority of the climbing is found on the east (Main Dome) side of the canyon, with just two areas and a handful of climbs on the west (Little Dome) side. The east consists of Throne Rock, the Orange Peel Area, Motorboat Rock, the Triple Cracks Sanctuary, and Rapeller�s Rock. The west side is home to the Sopwhip Boulders and The Frog. Finding your route can be a little confusing at first, but the area is pretty easy to navigate once you get your bearings. There are a few bolted routes in the area, but most require trad gear. Also, most routes are equipped with top anchors. On any given weekend, Motorboat Rock is home to instructional groups and guided parties because of the short, moderate routes with easy access to top rope anchors. The other areas can also become crowded but you can usually find something to jump on. classic routes in the area include Jack Knife (5.5) combined with Cave Crack (5.6), Owl Crack (5.8+), Middle Crack (5.8), Orange Peel (5.10a), and Clockwerk Orange (5.11a).
Echo Canyon is easy to find and has one of the shortest approaches of any area in the park. Follow the park road to a turn around with a gazebo at the end (and restrooms of to the right). From the gazebo, walk down the stairs to the creek, and follow the obvious trail that leads toward the dome. Approximately a third of the way up the dome, the trail splits at a wooden sign: the summit trail branches right while the Echo Canyon Trail goes left. Follow the Echo Canyon trail over the saddle between the two domes and down a rocky draw. There are several large boulders and a small interpretive board with a map of the park at the base of the draw. Two climbers' trails lead to east side of the canyon: the purple trail is used to access Throne Rock, Orange Peel, and Motorboat while the green trail leads to Rapeller�s Rock and Triple Cracks. On the opposite side of the boulders, a red trail takes you to The Frog.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Echo Canyon:
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Motorboat 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Motorboat Rock
This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand....[more] Browse More Classics in TX
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