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Palisade Head
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Unsorted Routes:

Ecclesiastes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Bjork
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006
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Description 

Start this line with some bouldery moves on edges and hard finger jams to a good hand jam. Most the hard climbing is over, but it does stay somewhat sustained at maybe 10+ to the top. Quite a bit of face relief along the way. Belay at the ledge at the top of the crack or do whatever else you want. There is a loose block roughly 2/3 the way up, watch out for that as you naturally want to use it for your feet.


Location 

North Annex


Protection 

An assortment of cams, wires.



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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 13, 2006

AKA- asleazyassdisease... Courtesy of P. Wagner

By Jeff Kolehmainen
From: Eagan, MN
Nov 5, 2007

I think the FA was Paul Bjork.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2008

Now, if there is a route that needs some cleaning...

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 20, 2009

fun line. crack system in the middle reminds me of the lower section (past the crux, before no hands rest and start of the dihedral) of don't bring a knife to a gun fight.

first good/worthwhile piece is a #1 camalot. after that, takes small cams, mainly red and orange TCU's. above the ledge, takes a #3 and a #2 camalot (or just two #2s).