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EBGB Block Area
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Nick Badyrka, April 1977
Page Views: 7,404
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002

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Chris on EBGB's Photo by Brent Gonzales


This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect. Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.

The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing 20' past the last bolt. Four stars out of five.


On the outer (west) face of the EBGB Block Area.


5 bolts to a bolted anchor which is located in the center of the block. The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip. All bolts are 3/8".

Photos of EBGB's Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's
Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's
photo taken by Thanh Dinh
photo taken by Thanh Dinh
EBGB's topo
EBGB block getting the last light
EBGB block getting the last light
EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, which had taken a brutal fall recently, because the homemade DPH hanger was ripped open exposing nasty shards of aluminum.
EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, w...
John rocking the American flag jacket on the sharp end of EBGB's
John rocking the American flag jacket on the sharp...
EBGB Boulder
the sharp end!
the sharp end!
Rick starting EBGB's with the mantle move.
Rick starting EBGB's with the mantle move.

Comments on EBGB's Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 16, 2014
By C Miller
Jul 11, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Around 1986 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall. Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the metal like taffy!
By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 5, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.

For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.

Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!

Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.

The start was way tough.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 10, 2003

just a question.....Why is the one climb called ebgbs it seems like such astrange name? -Steve
By Murf
Feb 10, 2003

Think "heebie-geebies" as in having the heebie-jeebies ( m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?va=... ). Now think about climbing shoe names in 1977.
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 10, 2003

There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ...
By Randy
Nov 6, 2003

While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2008

this is a trad climb? o.O
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 22, 2009

wasn't this soloed by that guy in return 2 sender?
Mar 23, 2009

I have pics of Michael Reardon soloing this rig. Yipes!! I was scared on toprope!
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 11, 2012

Amazingly Fun Route!! A Demanding and awkward full body mantle, involving not only strength but balance leads to fun thin and balancey face climbing! The Run outs are splendid with bolts right where you need them and devoid where you don't! Certainly an excellent J-Tree .1o face route!
By Tradoholic
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze.
By Richardo
Jan 16, 2014

The start is 10d for sure but the slab climbing is easy for grade in Jtree