EB Jeebies  5.8

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  C. Salaun, J. Johnson, 1979 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Nearly at the top.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a nice flake & groove to a jam crack in a dihedral that draws your eye as you inspect the short NW face. It lies just L of a deep water groove (Twig's Lament) and the W arête of the crag. Only 75 or 80 ft, it can pack a workout. This is often in the shade until mid afternoon.

Find a boulder on the W arête of the crag, hop on. You can place a green alien from the boulder. Grab a hanging edge of the groove, muscle aboard. Work the edge & a crack above to good rests before the dihedral. Jam the toothy hand to fist crack to the top. The L wall is quite grippy & has scattered holds & dishes. There is a small tree & grooves 20 ft back from the top.

Scramble off to the SE.

1.7 stars

Protection 

wires, cams to #4 friend.