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Black Arches Wall
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Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: October 2007
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Above the layback'ed wide crack. Note the pre-pla...

Description 

Clever routefinding to circumvent a heinous OW start, a delightful bit of jamming through the crux, and an exhilirating overhang problem on the 2nd pitch.
This route has finally been cleaned up; now it's a classic line.

P1: Climb blocky notch, follow ramp out right, then hand-traverse back left to avoid the OW start (either way is 5.8). Climb the obvious handcrack rising right from the fangish OH to a hanging belay under the roof.

P2: Traverse left until you can reach a small right-facing flake on the lip of the overhang. A scary, committing haul-up gets you over the obstacle. Follow the flake to its top, then climb easy friction to the top of the buttress.

Location 

Toward the left side of the Black Arch ArÍte, at a small mossy dirt cone leading up to a slanted ledge with an OW crack on its left end. There is a large, ugly "gully" with a few trees growing in it to the right, between this route and The Black Arch ArÍte.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, a few extra big cams (#3 Camalot sz).


Photos of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It Slideshow Add Photo
Jamie McNeill on FA of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It. <br />Here, he is just returning to the left after bypassing the OW start via a good handcrack. <br />He will continue up the wide crack to the right of the overhang.
Jamie McNeill on FA of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It....

Comments on Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Aug 23, 2010

This is much nicer, now that it is cleaned up. Still challenging; and one can choose to take the direct start up the wide crack that Torcher uses.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 3, 2012

Armed with neither route info or a large cam, I led this via a satisfying combination of both options at the start - I scampered up right and hand traversed left on the horizontal to get a good couple nuts in the crack as close to the OW as I could. Then I downclimbed to the base and climbed directly up the wide crack as a not-bad-at-all layback. Agree with the 8ish rating for this pitch.