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Eaten Alive 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Shane Messer
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Aaron James Parlier on Jan 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Eaten Alive (V7)

Description 

On the arete to the left side of the blank, featureless face on Thews, you will find a slopey rail feature that trends up and right. This rail is midway up and fizzles out leading into distant crimps. Top out at a notch far to the right at the lip of the boulder.

Low start at the left end of the slopey rail. Work right across rail to set up for a long move to a distant crimp rail. At the rail, move into another crimp, and then blast to the high notch. Top out near the notch.

Two stars... Would be 3 stars, but the fact that you can -not- do the problem and blast to the top(?) keeps it at 2....


Location 

on the bottom left front face of the Thews Boulder.


Protection 

pads



Photos of Eaten Alive Slideshow Add Photo
Steve on "Eaten Alive" (V7) in the Mid Boneyard, GHSP
Steve on "Eaten Alive" (V7) in the Mid Boneyard, G...
Steve on "Eaten Alive" (V7) in the Mid Boneyard, GHSP
Steve on "Eaten Alive" (V7) in the Mid Boneyard, G...
Comments on Eaten Alive Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Nov 7, 2011

This is a hard crimp line but an elimanant line to me. Not sure it deserves any stars because of the requirement to off-route holds and the natural feel of an earlier topout.

We found that there were a couple natural lines our group enjoyed. We climbed the Alive Arete problem utilizing the arete and the 3" rail from the corner to the first natural topout above the rail that utilizes the good flake on top for the topout.

We also climbed the end of this problem as a one move toss, stand start ending on the very worthy crystal pinching, ball scratching, mantle! Also, go easy on the last rail on this problem, it will probably eventually come off if you match on it.

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Nov 8, 2011

So... Did you actually climb this Jay? Yes, the line you take is an eliminate, but only if you bail out to the top for a mantle, and the only "off route" hold is not tossing to the top and mantling over mid way (otherwise you can climb the Alive Arete you know?)... I can see this not being a "classic line" for sure, and never claimed it as such, but "no stars" is pretty extreme here (especially if you didnt send it, but Im hoping you did in this case).

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Sep 19, 2012

Just saw your response (a year later) No, def did not climb the problem as listed, but checked it out as I mentioned. Two compadres and I found the problem as described to be an eliminate line avoiding the easily reachable top of the boulder that naturally presents itself several moves prior to the end of the crimps. I did stand start the end of the line as a straight up problem which was pretty good off the last two tiny crimps of this traverse. Several of the holds/feet on this problem will eventually break off. I actually gave it one star, so not no stars like I mentioned above.

You do bring up an interesting question, I am completely willing to assign stars to something after looking at it and working it. Is the code send then give stars? My code is send then give grade opinion. My logic is that stars are based on several things, asthetic appeal, "true line", quality of rock, and last but not least: how it climbs. For instance sometimes you look at something and you know it is an instant classic, ala THEWS, other times you start to work something and realize it sucks and walk away because it is not worth your time/skin. That is valuable info to pass on to the next guy, even if you did not send.

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Sep 20, 2012

"not sure if it deserves any stars" was what I was referring
to. A ton of people have been stoked on this line, it was just odd to hear such a poor response from it is all. But then again everyone is different
It's contrived sure, but fun. Everyone is entitled to their opinion for stars, I have just always felt odd (never have) issued stars, much less detracted stars, from something I didn't top out. I feel like I always enjoy the line more from the top you know? Not to mention, this has a pretty obvious line of holds... But by all means, give
your opinion wherever you see fit... this won't be 3stars in the guide for sure, no worries.