Eat at Degnan's 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Ian G. on Apr 29, 2009 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description One of the first visible cracks on the cliff. You can identify it by the obvious lieback flake at the top. This would be the crux. The bottom wide cracks are a little tougher than they look and may be a little mungy depending on how much traffic the area is getting.
Location One of the first cracks on the north side of the tunnel.
Protection Standard rack plus doubles from yellow tcu to .5 camalot. Maybe some more small pro for the crux lieback flake. As of 4/5/09 this route needed some new slings for the rap anchor.
| Comments on Eat at Degnan's |
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By B-rad Benter
Oct 19, 2009
| Hey Ian, the route you climbed and rated is actually called Eat at Degnans, 5.9+. Definitely worth the 3 stars. The three parallel cracks visible at the bottom are the beginning of both routes and many (somewhat contrived) options exist. The cracks near the bottom of both routes are pretty clean now, but the cracks are gritty and sharp. I actually led Pohono the Barbarian, the 10.a and it is wider, harder and not as good as Degnans. The step across at the top is the crux, but it is protected by something fixed? Worth doing, but heady for the grade. It will definitely improve with time and more climbs. |
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 22, 2009
| Ha! I thought that might have been the case. The Reid topo is a little unclear (or I was having a low IQ day). I'll update this when I have the time. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 11, 2010
| FA: Royal Robbins - 1965 |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jun 15, 2012
| The Reid guide is incredibly unclear about these routes. The topo looks nothing like the actual cracks. I added Pohono The Barbarian according to the description Benter gave. Assuming that's correct, and Eat At Degnan's is the next climb left (starting up a wide groove with a tree growing out of the bottom), that would mean "Your Pizza Is Ready 5.8/9" in the Reid guide does not exist?
Edited to say: Upon further inspection, "Your Pizza Is Ready" shares the same first half as Degnan's, but where the later moves right to finish up the lieback flake (joining the end of Pohono), Your Pizza continues up the sort of dirty left-facing corner straight up to the tree. |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 29, 2012
| just for some reference
#! |
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