|678 page views|
This is fun 5.8 that's mostly 5.4 - 5.7. I believe there are 3 or 4, 5.8 moves.
Start at the wide crack that tapers to nothing, moving left to right. Once the crack ends continue up the obvious short seam (with room for pro), moving left at its top to the first bolt.
From here, move left and up into the obvious crack to the ledge. Clip the second bolt and climb up:
You'll need your two micro cams (purple and blue Aliens) for protection above the bolt enroute to the top. Place the purple first, then step up to the small horizontal crack, and place the blue. . . . Step up and reach high for the jug atop the final ledge.'
Some may find the last move or two above the second bolt a bit sketchy as the small Aliens aren't too great, though worthy. . . but if you're okay with 5.8, and setting pro, then it won't be a problem.
This is on the far right side of the Mushroom Massive complex, when viewing from the road. It is right of Wookie and Unknown (the crag across the "corridor" from these).
You can start by scrambling to the ramp at the base of the routes, or from the ground:
NOTE: If you start from the ground, you'll need a two rope rap or a 70m rope to return to the ground. I don't find the scramble up or down from the ramp too bad, and if you start from on the upper-ramp, then it's 100 feet.
The rap station is (two bolts) at the top ledge.
Alien rack and nuts and something larger for the lower section of the first crack. . . may need an extra black (large) and purple Alien.
Two bolts and rap anchors at top.